The Angry Baker
Many happy returns at this Olde Towne East spot.
Nothing about this little bakery/breakfast/lunch/early dinner spot in Olde Towne East should make you angry. In fact, you most likely will feel quite the opposite.
We review restaurants, not bake shops, but a few words about the baked goods is essential. The cinnamon rolls were yeast-raised beauties that distinguished themselves from the greasy, oversweet Cinnabon types. The rolls were soft and fragrant, with just the right balance of sweet, spice and buttery bread. Scones also were well-made classics—buttery, crumbly, sweet but not too. I liked every baked good I tried.
On to breakfast, which is served all day in the cramped space with just a few tables and a compact counter (takeout and catering are available). There was an egg and Swiss cheese sandwich, served on a big chive scone. Though the scone was delicious, the small egg and slice of cheese got lost. (Maybe two eggs or a smaller scone?) The vegan pancakes with egg substitutes were fine, though doughy (eggs give pancakes fluffiness). The best breakfast item was the lovely soft baked eggs with spinach Parmesan and brioche; it came with a side salad of crisp mixed greens in a simple vinaigrette. I’d highly recommended this dish for either lunch or dinner.
Speaking of lunch and later, the daily soup was a good choice. Two standouts were tortilla (topped with avocado and strips of thick, fried masa) and an odd, but yummy combination of tangy tomato and sweet potato (it’s the only non-Asian sweet and sour soup I’ve tasted).
Most of the rest of the menu consisted of sandwiches. The best thing about them, not surprisingly, was the housemade buns and rolls they came on. In particular, I liked the vegan curry burger and the steak sandwich with seared sirloin peppers, onions and portobello mushrooms. The salmon burger disappointed, though; it was too salty, with dry-style smoked salmon. The chicken Parmesan was better. There also was a fine simple green salad.
As you might expect, locally sourced ingredients were used for many items. The cooking happened before my eyes, which was fun to watch. The owner and proprietor usually worked with one helper, so service, while attentive and friendly, was a touch slow when the place got busy.
It appears the residents of Olde Towne East have taken to the Angry Baker. Try the baked goods and you’ll instantly know why.
The Angry Baker
891 Oak St.
Atmosphere: Small urban cafe in an old building.
Recommended dishes: All breads, pastries, other baked goods, soups, baked eggs.
Price range: Pastries $1.50-$5.25; breakfast and lunch $3.25-$10.50.
Hours: Sunday and Monday 8 am to 5 pm and Tuesday through Saturday till 7 pm.
Reservations: Not accepted.
Rating: *** 1/2