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A new review of an old favorite.
The Special Dinner at El Vaquero, which includes a beef taco, chalupa, chili relleno, enchilada, tamale, fried beans, guacamole salad and Mexican rice.
Michael A. Foley/Rycus Assoc.
The Mexican restaurant El Vaquero has grown into an operation with eight Central Ohio locations (as well as two in or near Toledo and one in Michigan).
It’s not hard to see why there’s growth: good food and good service at good prices.
Although I’ve eaten at several of the locations for this “Fresh look,” I concentrated on the Olentangy River Road site. It was just about always bustling, with lots of happy eaters in evidence. Only parties of six or more can get reservations, so if you go on a busy night, you risk having to wait.
The Olentangy River Road site was festive and nicely laid out, with familiar Mexican decorative touches and a big mural. It just hummed. But even when it was crowded, the food arrived commendably fast. One time an order went wrong and the replacement entree arrived in a very impressive three minutes.
The food reflected standard Mexican restaurant cooking, but done with great reliability. None of the appetizers surprised me, but all were good or better. The standard chips and dip were competent, with a smooth, flavorful and mildly hot salsa. The bean dip was loose and tasty, topped with plenty of melted white cheese (and it went exceptionally well with the basic margarita that had a nice balance of flavors). I liked the spinach dip, and the jalapeño poppers were done just right—but be careful because the cheese was molten when the dish arrived.
All the entrees were very good as well. At first bite, Camarones al Diablo did not taste that hot, but a kick began to develop fairly soon. Tacos al Pastor was satisfactory, with flavorful meat and nice trimmings. My dining companion showed self-restraint by ordering vegetarian fajitas and the nicely grilled assortment of colorful vegetables made for an appealing meal.
If you have a big appetite, go for the Special Dinner, which takes up two platters. Everything on it was fresh and tasty. You probably won’t eat it all, but who cares?—chalupa, guacamole salad, chili relleno, beef taco, tamale, enchilada, fried beans, Mexican rice . . . burp. Have another margarita to wash it down.
El Vaquero
3230 Olentangy River Rd.
(plus seven other Central Ohio locations)
261-0900
Price range: Appetizers $2.75-$8.10; soups and salads $2.35-$6.95; entrees $7.05-$15.99; desserts $2.30-$3.95.
Hours: Monday through Thursday 11 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday till 10:30 pm and Sunday till 9:30 pm.
Reservations: Only for parties of six or more.
Rating: ***
