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PrintRoute 62 Barbecue
Barbecue is done right at this mostly carryout joint in Johnstown.
There are many pretenders trying to oust City Barbeque from the throne as the best barbecue operation in Central Ohio, but the king still reigns. However, Route 62 Barbecue in the outlying burg of Johnstown should be considered a prince.
Johnstown is a quiet little town in Licking County, readily accessible if you live out that way (that is, near New Albany). The joint, named in part after the roadway it rests along, operates in a modest brick building populated with a smattering of tables (and a few outside). The bulk of the place is reserved for the kitchen, and there’s an area out back for the huge smokers, where all the goodness happens.
Barbecue is about many things: the cut and quality of the meat, its preparation (including the dry rub and—sometimes—wet mops), the sauces. . . . Mostly, though, it’s about the timing, temperature and wood used for the long smoking/cooking process.
Route 62 gets that right, because the brisket, pulled pork, ribs, chicken and turkey were all good—still reasonably moist, smoky but not too, with a flavorful rub that did not overwhelm with salt or any other flavor. The meat took center, left and right stage, which is how it should be. It also should be served sans sauce, as was done here.
There were, of course, several sauces from which to choose. Your choices included a basic (modestly sweet and smoky), a vinegary “Carolina” sauce, a mustard-based one and a spicy version of the basic.
If I have any complaint (it’s a small one), the rack of ribs seemed a little soft, but that was more a matter of personal taste. The ribs served here are “baby backs.” Baby back ribs are taken from the top of the rib cage between the spine and the spare ribs, which have less meat, but are longer than baby backs. What may seem small for ribs have at least as much meat as the longer spare rib.
The rest of the stuff here was high quality, and the prices were pretty good, too (in that respect Route 62 beats City Barbeque). You can feed a hungry family of four for $25, with the “family pack” of one and a half pounds of meat, buns for sandwiches, sauces and two pints of sides. Sides included potato salad, spicy and vinegary collard greens (love ’em or hate ’em), good slaw and tasty baked beans, with four or five different beans with lots of shredded meat. The cheesy potatoes were plenty cheesy, and the fresh cut fries were very good. The skillet corn, however, tasted greasy. Though the selection was small, there were good homemade pies whole or by the slice.
No alcohol was served. Service was at the counter or, for most folks, carryout. There was one somewhat annoying thing. Both times I got carryout, I specified a time for pickup, arrived on schedule and still had to wait for about 10 minutes because my order wasn’t filled until I arrived. It’s not that big of an inconvenience for food this good, but if that’s the policy, it should be stated when the order is placed.
Other than that, the folks who work here were friendly and fast. Certainly, the owners know their craft.
Route 62 Barbecue
580 Coshocton St. (St. Rt. 62), Johnstown
(740) 967-2462
Atmosphere: Rib joint.
Recommended dishes: All barbecue meats and sandwiches, fresh cut fries, greens, bakes beans, slaw.
Price range: Sandwiches $5.25-$5.95 (with a side $6.60-$7.30); rack of baby backs $10; meat $9.95-$10.50 per pound; sides $1.50 for a serving, $4.50 for a pint, $6.95 per quart.
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday 11 am to 8 pm, Sunday noon to 7 pm; closed Sunday.
Service: At the counter; friendly.
Reservations: Not at this kind of place.
Rating: ***
