Columbus Monthly / December 2010 / December / Piada Italian Street Food

 Email  Print

Piada Italian Street Food

Italian mixed with Chipotle and a Doody brother.

Found on West Lane Avenue, Piada Italian Street Food has been called an Italian version of Chipotle—and for good reason. The comparisons are many, from the choose-your-own dish and fillings along the counter to the bags of chips at the end (in this case, deconstructed cannoli rather than corn chips and salsa).

But the similarities are not just stylistic. The founder and owner, Chris Doody, realizes that Chipotle’s success is more about the quality of the food than anything else, and he has taken note. And so the Italian sausage is first-rate, the sliced cured meats quite decent, the vegetables and greens crisp and fresh and the tomato sauce bright and flavorful. Doody knows what people like; after all, he and his brother learned from Mom of Lindey’s fame and then made a huge success of Bravo! and Brio. So far, people like Piada, and I do, too.

Here’s the concept: Order a “piada”—like a flour burrito—and select a grill item and a sauce, then choose from a long list of fresh fillings. Or, top a bowl of angel-hair pasta or romaine and mixed greens in the same way. Grill items included well-seasoned calamari with hot peppers, a mix of seasonal veggies, cold thin-sliced Italian meats (Italian ham, salami etc.) and chicken fragrant with rosemary. That’s not all. There was that terrific Italian sausage with fennel and a little spice, decent slices of steak with garlic, rosemary and lemon, and the best fast-food salmon I’ve had. (OK, the only fast-food salmon I’ve had, but it was plenty fresh.)

There were five decent sauces (pomodoro, diavolo, red pepper pesto, basil pesto and creamy Parmesan) and 15 toppings, including mozzarella, arugula, artichokes, pancetta, eggplant caponata, tomato basil relish and mushrooms. So, doing the math, there are exactly 2.7 gazillion possible combinations—too many to try. Using my culinary skills, I’ve chosen the three best combinations, saving you the time and effort. (You’re welcome.)

1. Piada: steak, red pepper pesto and arugula.

2. Salad bowl: chicken, fresh basil pesto and artichokes.

3. Pasta bowl: Italian sausage, diavolo, eggplant caponata and Parmesan cheese.

Of course, I must issue the following disclaimer—your results may vary. This is not because of the food quality (it has been consistent on my visits), but, rather, on the possibility you might not like red pepper pesto. (There is no accounting for lack of taste.)

Beyond the main courses (so to speak), a few other items were available, including a side salad and two soups. The lobster bisque was just OK (too much thickener, not enough lobster shell flavor), but I enjoyed the sprightly tomato basil. The place also offered Piada sticks, which were a flour crust wrapped around various fillings (ham, pepperoni, cheese) and baked. These seem like a good idea, but on two samplings they were stale. I suspect that the humidity in the kitchen got to them as they sat out until picked up by customers.

The one sweet was well worth trying, the previously mentioned deconstructed cannoli. It was fried pastry chips with a little tub of creamy sweet filling and chocolate chips for dipping. Yummy.

There was one beer, Peroni (Italian, of course), and one house white or red wine in tall, thin bottles (“bottle for two,” says the menu) that held about three and a half glasses. The red was remarkably good for $9.50.

Service at the counter moved along at a good pace, so don’t be daunted by a long line.

Piada Italian Street Food

1315 W. Lane Ave.

754-1702

mypiada.com

Atmosphere: Casual.

Recommended dishes: Piadas, pasta or salad combinations, tomato basil soup, cannoli chips.

Price range: Piada, pasta bowl and salad bowl, $5.95-$7.95; sides, soups etc. $1.75-$4.95.

Hours: 10:45 am to 10 pm daily.

Service: At the counter; efficient.

Reservations: Not accepted.

Rating: ***