Email
Print
FeedPerfect Pair
Pizza and live music go hand in hand at Natalie’s
Tessa Berg Photos
The charred-crust pizza at Natalie’s is pretty terrific, but somehow it tastes even better when it’s accompanied by live bluegrass.
Worthington’s new hotspot, Natalie’s Coal-Fired Pizza and Live Music, has a two-pronged name for a reason—here, the pies are equally as important as the tunes.
Settle in for a couple hours with a pizza and a beer on a night when a touring national act is on stage (highlights thus far: honky-tonk songstress Eilen Jewell and blues royalty Teeny Tucker) and this is one of the most enjoyable dining options in town.
The lineup of folk, jazz and blues is loosely categorized as Americana, and it’s an ideal fit for this comfy venue in one of our more happening suburbs. Every seat in the dimly lit space offers a great view of the stage—and on weekend nights, you can bet every one of those seats is taken.
So really, my only complaint about this ambitious new joint is I’m bummed they can’t have live music all evening, every night.
Music doesn’t get started most nights until about 9 p.m. Before the bands take the stage, something’s missing—and a darkened, empty stage that feels like a hole in the wall is a constant reminder of what.
The inconsistent vibe is a hurdle, but one that can be overcome. Musicians could feasibly start playing earlier, say, and a strategically placed curtain would work wonders.
Luckily for Natalie’s, in the meantime, the pizza can hold its own.
Can we agree to move beyond calling this gourmet pizza and start calling it pizza by people who actually know how to make it? We’re lucky, indeed, to finally have a pizza scene to be proud of here in Columbus.
The deal at Natalie’s is the pizzas are cooked in a scorching-hot, custom-built coal-fired oven. It’s a century-old style that’s popular in New York City—in fact, when most people talk about New York-style pizza they’re referring to coal-fired pies.
Natalie’s copper-clad oven turns out pies with a lovely charred crust—in the same league as (but not better than) the wood-fired competition at Harvest and Bono. The thin-crusted pizzas are topped with tangy tomato sauce and sparingly applied, top-quality imported Italian cheese. One pizza feeds two people, especially after an appetizer or two, but ravenous folks should consider ordering one apiece.
As per usual with properly constructed pizzas like these, the simply topped options excel. A saucy Margherita ($11) with Roma tomato slices, basil and fresh mozzarella rounds offers a good opportunity to appreciate that masterful crust. (Cheese lovers, though, will want to ask for extra mozzarella.)
I dug the Funky Funghi ($13), loaded with sauteed mushrooms, roasted garlic and fresh herbs. A sprinkling of pungent gorgonzola and a drizzle of truffle oil push this one off the charts flavorwise.
Meat-topped pies are tasty, too, like the carnivorous Casanova ($15), topped with crumbled sausage, applewood-smoked bacon and crispy pepperoni, or the Venetian Jail ($14.50), which balances rich sausage with fresh arugula and a tart balsamic reduction drizzle.
Restaurants often have trouble getting the little things right, so allow me to brag on Natalie’s house-made Mediterranean Hummus ($5.50). Served with fresh veggies and crostini, this remarkably creamy and decadent chickpea dip includes all the typical ingredients—roasted garlic, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice—just in near-perfect proportions.
Appetizers are otherwise on the rich and bubbly side, like a brick of four-cheese macaroni ($6) and creamy Arancini ($7)—the traditional Italian risotto balls are stuffed with goat cheese before being breaded and fried.
A small but serviceable wine list and classic cocktails made with Ohio spirits are overshadowed by a rotating selection of craft brews, including local favorites from Columbus Brewing Company and Four String alongside national standouts like Troegs HopBack and Founders Centennial IPA.
For dessert, bypass the ridiculous Cannoli Martini ($6.50) in favor of a square of light, custardy Tiramisu ($6). n
|
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Natalie’s
Coal-Fired Pizza and Live Music 5601 N. High St., Worthington 614-436-2625 nataliescoalfiredpizza.com Hours: 4-11 p.m. Tue-Thu, 4 p.m.-12 a.m. Fri-Sat, 4-11 p.m. Sun Price range: $20-$30 per person, with pizzas ranging from $11 to $15. Reservations: Recommended on the weekends In short: Live music is what sets Natalie’s apart from the artisan pizza heap. Rating: ★ ★ ★ 1/2 |
RATING SYSTEM
★ ★ ★ ★ ★: outstanding |
