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PrintA visit to Nashville
There are plenty of music venues in the aptly named Music City, but visitors to Nashville also will be charmed by its Southern hospitality, great food and historic destinations.
Courtesy Nashville Convention & Visitors Bureau
Oscar-winning actress Gwyneth Paltrow lived in Nashville, Tennessee, for several months last year while filming Country Strong, which hit theaters in January. On her website, goop.com, Paltrow wrote of Nashville, “Never have I met such warm people, heard such good music, eaten so much fried chicken. . . . It’s so worth a trip. It’s pretty damn great.”
Nashville—or “NashVegas,” as locals sometimes call it in homage to the bright lights of the quaint downtown strip—is something of a little big town. Fewer than 600,000 people call Nashville home, and there’s a small-town vibe in this city filled with big names and a rich history.
Locals say it’s not uncommon to see popular musicians around the city’s various neighborhoods—paparazzi don’t seem to frequent this polite, Southern-hospitality-driven hamlet. It’s a friendly city with countless attractions, bars, restaurants and live music venues that boast beautiful architecture and impressive talent. Even better, it’s only a six-hour drive from Columbus. So, what are you waiting for?
Places to stay
Nashville was hit by quite a flood in May 2010, and the Gaylord Opryland Resort suffered devastating damage, causing its owners to close down the popular destination for more than six months. It reopened at the end of the year with nine restaurants and bars and new lobbies, guest rooms and suites. The resort is located just outside downtown and there are countless entertainment options nearby, including Oprymills, a 1.2 million-square-foot entertainment complex with shopping, dining and more.
If you’re looking for a place closer to the downtown scene, check out either location of Hotel Indigo. One is located on Union Street, while the other sits on West End Avenue, a main drag through downtown that leads to Vanderbilt University and Music Row. These high-rise, modern boutique hotels tout state-of-the-art health and fitness centers and several dining options.
According to travel website kayak.com, the historic Hermitage Hotel consistently is rated five stars by guests and service professionals. The grandiose hotel opened in 1910, quickly becoming the meeting place for wealthy Nashvillians, and it remains one of the city’s finest establishments for guests to rest their heads. Services include a fitness room, an on-call limousine service and massage therapy.
If you’d like to be a bit closer to Vanderbilt’s campus, try the Loews Vanderbilt Hotel, located right across the street from dormitories on the main campus. Guest services include a salon and day spa, child care and pet sitting.
Not far away is Union Station, a hotel that easily could be confused with a cathedral. Before it was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1977, the hotel actually served as a train station. (Fun side note: Police once escorted mafia boss Al Capone through the station on his way to prison in Georgia.) A hotel since 1986, architectural features include a 65-foot lobby ceiling with gold-leaf medallions and 100-year-old stained-glass windows. Amenities include a covered outdoor veranda, a full-service business center and an award-winning culinary team.
Places to visit
Jenny Steuber, public relations manager for the Nashville Convention & Visitors Bureau, says if you’re planning a trip to Music City, you should know one important fact: “Nashville is much more than country music.” She acknowledges that country music has a vital role in the rich music scene, but if you’re not a fan of twang, Steuber assures potential travelers it’s possible to find many more musical influences throughout the city.
Even those who don’t make a habit of listening to country music can appreciate the history found in two Nashville landmarks. No visit to Nashville is complete without a stop at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. The current building, an architectural gem downtown, opened 10 years ago at a cost of $37 million. Exhibits on display in 2011 include Family Tradition: The Williams Family Legacy, which showcases the talent of Hank Williams and his son, Hank Williams Jr., as well as other family members and their influences on country music. You also can catch Tammy Wynette: First Lady of Country Music through June 12. There are countless other events at the attraction, including a frequent songwriters’ night, so check countrymusichalloffame.org for updates.
Quite possibly Nashville’s most revered landmark, the Grand Ole Opry should be on every visitor’s itinerary. The opry began as a radio broadcast in 1925, and it’s still going strong 85 years later with weekly performances by legendary stars past and present. Shows are confirmed about a month in advance, so visit opry.com to see the full calendar.
The appeal of the opry is so powerful that even when 46 inches of water filled the famed performance space during the flood last May, there was never a missed show during renovations—it found temporary solace at music venues around the city until its home stage reopened to a packed house in late September.
While the flood damage was being repaired, the famed Ryman Auditorium hosted many broadcasts—which seems appropriate, since the Ryman was the official home of the Opry from 1943 to 1974. Today, the Ryman hosts a variety of acts from all musical genres. Don’t be confused if you attend a show at this unique venue: It looks like a church, and you’ll be seated in what appear to be pews. Acts coming to the Ryman stage in 2011 include Cake, George Jones and “A Prairie Home Companion’s” Garrison Keillor.
If you’re up for a drive through the Tennessee countryside, the Hermitage might be the perfect afternoon destination. The stately mansion, once home to President Andrew Jackson, sits on more than a thousand beautiful acres of lush landscape. Tours include an inside look at the home, with guides dressed in period costumes explaining the president’s life story, the farm’s history and select stories of slaves who lived on the property. Tours are available year-round; see thehermitage.com for more information.
Places to eat
Don’t think the only cuisine you’ll find in Nashville is fried. Yes, it may be the South, but the dining scene is evolving constantly and includes a range of cuisines.
“Nashville’s most notable contribution to Southern culinary culture, hot chicken, is a must-try when you’re in town,” says the visitors bureau’s Steuber. She says Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack is the most well-known joint in the city, but along with her recommendation, she issues a warning. “Don’t be a daredevil and go for extra hot. The mild is plenty hot for most people.”
If you’re looking for a fancy seafood place, Steuber recommends Fish & Co., which opened in the fall and is run by award-winning chef Louis Osteen. According to the restaurant’s website, Osteen—who was honored with a James Beard award in 2004—is “known for his interpretation and dedication to southern food, as well as his commitment to using seasonal, locally-sourced products.” Steuber says you might even run into country/pop star Taylor Swift if you dine at Fish & Co.—it’s located inside her condo building.
People flock to Loveless Café, which is famous for its “melt-in-your-mouth” biscuits, says Steuber. Carol Fay Ellison, known as “The Biscuit Lady,” worked at the cafe for more than 30 years, starting as a dishwasher in high school. One evening when the chef called in sick, Ellison took the reins, and the rest is history. Prior to her death last April, she appeared on numerous TV programs, including “Today,” “The Early Show” and “The Ellen DeGeneres Show.” Her legend (and biscuits) live on for locals and visitors.
Although it’s just standard breakfast fare, anything you order at Hillsboro Village’s Pancake Pantry will please your palate. In addition to an extensive pancake menu, the best part about visiting this iconic Nashville haunt is the anticipation. If you go on a Saturday or Sunday, expect to wait in line outside the restaurant for 30 to 45 minutes (or longer)—people love this place.
If you’re planning a date night while you’re in town, you might want to check out Capitol Grille, located inside downtown’s Hermitage Hotel. The restaurant has a partnership with the Tennessee Land Trust, so many of the ingredients incorporated into the menu are farmed by the executive chef and his team on a local farm.
Steuber says City House is “all the rage” in Nashville. The restaurant, which opened three years ago, offers Italian-inspired dishes with a focus on local produce. There’s a Sunday Supper menu that rotates weekly and is great for sharing with tablemates.
Hidden gems
As is the case when traveling to any unfamiliar territory, there’s a chance you could miss some gems that aren’t widely advertised. Here are some lesser-known stops you should consider making while you’re in town.
If you like desserts and a lot of icing, Gigi’s Cupcakes should be on your list. Shortly after opening her first tiny shop in 2008, Gigi decided to franchise. Nearly three years later, there are almost 35 locations around the country, and with good reason . . . the cupcakes are seriously good.
Just a hop, skip and a jump from Gigi’s is J.J.’s Market and Café. When you pull up outside, don’t be fooled by its humble exterior. Once you walk through the door, you can peruse the great imported beer selection, buy chocolates, pick up groceries or head to the intimate cafe on the other side of the building, which is decorated in an eccentric fashion. There’s free Wi-Fi and an endless supply of coffee and beer. What more do you need?
Because Nashville’s climate is relatively mild, the Nashville Farmer’s Market is open year-round. It incorporates several attractions, both indoors and in covered open-air sheds. You’ll find meats, breads, prepared meals, dog treats, soaps, garden supplies and more in the Farm Shed. There are a number of restaurants in the Market House dishing up a variety of foods, including barbecue, Jamaican and Cajun cuisine inspired by New Orleans. And you can get lost shopping for bargains at the flea market.
Called the “best kept dessert secret” in Nashville by Nashville Scene, Las Paletas offers a real treat: gourmet Mexican popsicles for $2. It’s tough to find because the shop is inside the Cypress Building in an unmarked storefront, but don’t give up if you miss it your first time around the block. Owned by two sisters, the shop’s popsicles—in flavors such as chocolate wasabi and pineapple chili—were highlighted in an episode of “Kid in a Candy Store” on the Food Network.
If you want to feel cool while enjoying good food and coffee, stop at Fido in Nashville’s trendy Hillsboro Village. This coffee shop/cafe always is bustling with activity. It’s a great place to meet friends for brunch or a cup of joe—the coffee beans are roasted daily in Nashville at sister store Bongo Java Roasting Co. If celebrity sightings interest you, this is the place to go. Look carefully, though. It’s such a laid-back environment, everyone seems to blend in and no one causes a scene.
Live music venues
It would be a travesty to visit Nashville without experiencing its diverse music scene. There are venues all over town where you can indulge in music at listening lounges and famous stages.
In addition to the previously mentioned Ryman, a must-see venue where must-see acts perform, there’s also Bridgestone Arena, which seats nearly 20,000 for concerts by major artists. If you’re more interested in visiting places where artists were discovered by music industry executives, check out some of the following venues.
The unassuming Bluebird Café is located in a strip mall outside of the city and seats just 100 people. The history here is rich. (Garth Brooks was discovered on this stage before signing a deal with Capitol Records.) Three or four songwriters typically perform in a round, singing their own music as well as accompanying their fellow musicians. Steuber says there are two shows a night. The late show is reserved for established writers, so there is a cover charge; the earlier show is free.
Another legendary Nashville stage, the Exit/In, opened in 1971 as one of the first listening rooms in the city. Jimmy Buffett, George Jones, Chuck Berry and other legends have walked and played this stage.
The building that houses Mercy Lounge and Cannery Ballroom, two favorite venues, has been around since 1883 when it was used as a flour mill and coffee production plant. The theater inside became popular in the 1970s and continues today. The building is located in the Gulch, a section of downtown undergoing a $400 million renovation. The goal is to transform a dilapidated part of town into an “urban chic” neighborhood.
Honky tonks
Great American Country (GAC), a country-music-themed cable network, offers a list of its favorite Nashville honky tonks and dive bars.
Bluegrass Inn: Located on Broadway with the glitz and glamour of the bright lights, this favorite destination for locals hosts nightly musicians playing bluegrass, traditional country and rockabilly tunes.
Bobby Idle’s Hour Tavern: There’s a statue outside that locals call the “Big Man” that waves visitors inside this Music Row tavern. This location has been open since 2005, when its owners were forced to relocate after a wrecking ball took down its original spot.
Legend’s Corner: One of the first things you’ll notice about this joint on “Honky Tonk Row” is the eclectic memorabilia adorning the walls, including five original 78 RPM Elvis Presley Sun Records, a set of KISS dolls and a 12-string guitar signed by its former owner, Johnny Cash. It’s also a place to hear authentic country music. You might even run into Vince Gill or Little Jimmy Dickens, who have been known to drop in on occasion.
Lonnie’s Western Room: GAC’s list calls Lonnie’s the most “notorious” karaoke bar in all of Nashville. It’s another bar where the city’s rich music history is depicted in the wall art. And consider yourself warned: This is probably not your typical, no-one-can-sing karaoke bar. There’s a lot of talent in this city, and sometimes people with big voices grab the mike and wow the crowd.
Wildhorse Saloon: The lighting and sound systems are top-notch at this honky tonk, and there’s a dance floor designed for a hoedown. It’s estimated that 1.5 million fans stop by every year for live music and dancing. Visitors also can order from a full menu, including award-winning barbecue. And in case you’re curious, the kitchen staff uses 3,000 gallons of barbecue sauce and two million pickle slices a year to produce a lot of fried pickles. n
Taylor Swope, an assistant editor for Columbus Monthly, has made countless trips to Nashville over the past four years to visit her brother at Vanderbilt University.
