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FeedThe Rossi Bar + Kitchen
A new review of an old favorite.
The crispy braised Duroc pork belly appetizer at the Rossi.
Michael A. Foley/MAF Photography
It’s a pleasant surprise to return to a restaurant one reviewed years ago to find that some of the good stuff is still on the menu and the new items fit in nicely.
Since it doesn’t happen often, I’m happy to say that’s the case with the Short North’s stylish Rossi Bar + Kitchen.
Appetizers were excellent. I loved the crispy braised pork belly, which was topped by tangy apple slices and two sprigs of frisée. It was succulent and delicious (not all that fatty, either).
And there was nothing wrong at all with the grilled lamb lollipops: four small, not-overcooked chops smeared with what I think was a cilantro-parsley purée and bacon jam. Huge yum!
Another super appetizer was the chef’s plate of charcuterie of good European ham, slices of pork, deviled eggs, cheese, apple slices, olives, toast and warm, crisp pork rinds.
I was slightly underwhelmed by Rossi’s take on a Caesar salad; it involved dry croutons, white Spanish anchovies, a creamy not-Caesar dressing and two small heads of romaine wrapped in prosciutto and grilled.
There was nothing not to like in the ingredients, but maybe too much going on.
The entrees were mostly excellent. During one visit, a special of grilled scallops on a bed of creamed spinach was wonderful. Also lots better than average was the tasty and flaky salmon.
I was a bit disappointed with the braised beef short ribs (a real treat on my previous review). The flavor was there, but they arrived not very warm and too dry. Still, I liked the milk polenta that came with them.
On the evidence of one sample, Rossi’s burger may well be the best in town. It was ample, juicy, beautifully flavored and served with all the traditional fixings. The Yukon Gold French fries, cut small, were excellent, too.
Unfortunately, I never got around to the pizza to see if it was as great as my last trip to Rossi.
But at least I ordered a martini, which was perfect. The waitperson asked just how much vermouth, so I told her Alton Brown’s secret: Swish the vermouth on the ice and pour it out before adding gin. And she listened!
The Rossi Bar + Kitchen
895 N. High St.
299-2810
rossibarandkitchen.com
Price range: Appetizers $4-$11; salads $8-$9; “brasserie” (such as sandwiches) $8-$12; entrees $17-$28; pizza $12-$14.
Hours: Kitchen open until 1 am Tue-Sat (till midnight Sun-Mon) and bar open until 2:30 am daily.
Rating: *** 1⁄2
