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PrintTrending in 2012: Artisan Pizza
For decades, Columbus pizza was dominated by Massey’s and its square-sliced ilk.
No more. We have a pizza scene worth bragging about, led by trendsetters Bono and Harvest Pizzeria, who proved there’s an appetite for expertly made pies topped with fresh, seasonal ingredients. From there, it’s been an explosion of independent pizzerias thinking past the pepperoni.
This past year saw the arrivals of Natalie’s Coal-Fired Pizza, Pie’s Gourmet Pizza Bistro and Pies & Pints, a chain from former Max & Erma’s CEO Rob Lindeman.
Natalie’s was inspired by the coal-fired pizzerias popular in New York City.
“We’re the only coal-fired pizzeria here in Columbus,” says general manager and head pie-maker David Koenig. “It’s a longer, more efficient way of burning. We think it gives a slightly different, more special type of char than you’ll get from wood or a deck oven. And we wouldn’t even consider a conveyor belt.”
As Koenig explains it, it’s the little things that set Natalie’s pizza apart from what the chains offer. Fresh produce is delivered six days a week, and everything from the sauce to the Neapolitan-style dough is made from scratch (the kitchen doesn’t even have freezers). Much of the cheese is imported from Italy and Spain, and Koenig tops pies with fresh mozzarella rather than shredded.
“It’s a little more cost to us, but it’s worth it in our eyes,” he says. “We’re not trying to be extravagant, we just want to do good-quality pizza.”
Natalie’s Coal-Fired Pizza Customers adore the Casanova pizza. Like all the pies here, it’s nicely charred around the edges, then loaded with local pepperoni, Italian sausage and smoked bacon. Another top seller is the Venetian Jail, with sausage, wild mushrooms, fresh arugula, ricotta, goat cheese and a balsamic reduction drizzle.
Pizza isn’t the only draw: Natalie’s doubles as a music venue, hosting live Americana acts nearly every night of the week.
“We have a wonderful wine list and a fantastic traditional cocktail list that, combined with the live music, creates an element we think is untouched here in Columbus,” Koenig says.
Pie’s Gourmet Pizza Bistro Expect rustic pizzas topped with smart flavor combinations, like duck confit with roasted mushrooms, gouda, gruyere and a poached egg. Pie’s also serves small plates and nightly entree specials, and an updated menu should debut soon—original chef and general manager William Fugitt, now working at Gallerie, has been succeeded by chef Austin Phillips and new GM Geoffrey Hull.
Pie’s is inside a restored century-old house, and an upstairs bar is the highlight. The entire second floor has been converted to the Pie in the Sky Pub, a perfect venue for sipping house cocktails.
