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G. Michael’s chef David Tetzloff continues to wow with his complex creations
If you wonder what becomes of English majors, that’s how executive chef and co-owner David Tetzloff started out, and he’s been cooking at G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar for over 10 years. And doing a fine job, by the way. His food could be accused of occasionally going overboard with too many interesting ingredients, except they make culinary sense, so he’s forgiven.
G. Michael’s is located on the corner of Third and Willow streets in German Village, a spot where there has been a good restaurant as far back as I can remember. And G. Michael’s has gotten even better than I remembered. The place has several sections: a large bar area where you enter, a nice-sized dining room to the rear, and a pleasant patio outside.
They make a fine martini, of course, beautifully balanced and beautifully cold. Also perhaps the best whiskey sour I’ve had in town, somehow fragrant and luscious. I suspect a secret ingredient, but was too civilized to ask.
There’s a fine selection of wines. One night, we got a bottle of Nebbiolo that was corked, and the wine guy was perfect in handling the situation.
OK, on to the food. I was utterly wowed by Caramelized Onion Tart with chorizo sausage and gruyere cheese. The pastry was flakey and delectable, the filling rich and savory, and the accompanying arugula salad was generously sized and flavorful.
Another big wow for Knife and Fork Crostini with braised pork belly, warm hominy vinaigrette and sweet slaw. The world is catching on to how delicious pork belly can be, and this one is done right. I don’t know how hominy contributes to vinaigrette, but it works, and the slaw was delicious.
By comparison, another appetizer was merely very good. The johnnycakes were thick and relatively under-flavored in the Sauteed Johnnycakes with creamy crab, scallop and bacon ragout and sauteed spinach with smoked tomato vinaigrette. Keep in mind that I am a johnnycake fanatic. G. Michael’s aren’t as good as mine, but they’re good, and the trimmings work, despite their complexity.
Entrees were uniformly excellent. I was particularly taken with the elegantly simple Fried, Amish-raised Half Chicken with truffle mashed potatoes, green beans, goat cheese croquette and black pepper gravy. OK, the potato and croquette are a little fussy, but the ample and perfectly cooked chicken was crisp and delicious.
One of my guests chose G. Michael’s Vegetable Plate, and as is so often the case, was rewarded by a very substantial portion of a great many fresh and interestingly cooked selections.
I’d have been jealous, except that I was busy with the BBQ-rubbed, Ohio-raised 14-ounce New York Strip, roasted sweet potatoes, sauteed mustard greens, topped with sunny-side egg and pork cracklins. As usual, the rub detracted by hiding the flavor of the beef, which was good. And the sunny-side egg on top was a smash.
With some trepidation, another evening I ordered Grilled Beef Filet on smoked cheddar mashed potatoes, country ham skillet beans, fried duck livers and red-eyed gravy. The reason for trepidation is that filet mignon, while tender, just lacks flavor. But the gravy helped, and the lovely crisp-fried duck livers provided just the right amount of interest. See what I mean about Chef Tetzloff’s fussy ingredients actually working out in terms of eating pleasure? n
