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A new review of an old favorite.
The sausage casserole at Moretti's.
Michael A. Foley/Rycus Assoc.
Here’s the first thing to know about Moretti’s: The portions are substantial.
So keep that in mind if you plan on ordering an appetizer, a salad and an entree at this popular location on Sawmill Road. It most likely will be too much food to consume during one sitting.
Here’s another thing to know: The good news is that it still offers its own sausage; the bad news is that it’s not the lovely veal sausage the place used to make when the restaurant was located in Grandview.
But the new pork sausage was pretty good. You can get it in appetizers, either crumbled in red sauce over pasta or in pieces with not overcooked onions and spicy banana peppers.
The salads were fresh, but dressed with such sufficient enthusiasm that I’d definitely recommend ordering your ranch on the side. The regular tossed salad was nice, with a mélange of pastas as part of the topping. You can get a good creamy gorgonzola and bacon dressing. The sliced tomato salad came with gorgonzola, onions and tasteless California olives (what’s up with that?).
The salmon was just OK, both in the salmon salad and the king salmon entree, which was served with green beans and onions in a cream sauce over fettuccine.
There were four sorts of lasagna and I liked them all. But the sausage version—which for some reason was not identified as lasagna, but as a simple casserole—was outstanding. There was the excellent sausage, a fine full red sauce, bright green and tender pasta and a first-rate cheesy balsamella.
As for pizzas, I went for the sausage with red peppers and mushrooms topping, and it was fine.
There were no surprises in the manicotti, just the way you like it, with plenty of melty cheese. Garlic chicken was tasty. Veal parmigiana almost covered the plate with a somewhat bland large slice of veal, most generously topped with mozzarella. I couldn’t detect any Parmesan. Again, I ask: What’s up with that?
The toasted garlic bread was pretty good. The wedding soup was comforting rather than spiffy, with good-sized pieces of carrot and celery along with smallish veal meatballs and the other usual stuff in a good broth.
The wine selection was small, but I liked all I tried. Espresso and cappuccino were the real things.
—John Champlin
MORETTI’S
5849 Sawmill Rd., Dublin
717-0400
Price range: Appetizers $2-$12; salads $6-$18; pizza $9-$12; casseroles/entrees $15-$28.
Hours: Monday through Thursday 5 to 9 pm, Friday and Saturday till 9:15 pm; closed Sunday.
Reservations: Accepted.
Rating: ***
