Columbus Monthly / October 2010 / Kikyo

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Kikyo

A new review of an old favorite.

This unassuming Japanese restaurant on Riverside Drive near the intersection of Fishinger Road (behind Figlio) has long been a favorite of the denizens of Upper Arlington and other neighbors who crave good sushi.

Little seems to have changed at Kikyo since we did our first review in the January 1997 issue. The plain Japanese menu appears to be the same—all the basics are here, including sushi, sashimi, noodle dishes, grilled and fried seafood, vegetables, edamame, dumplings, tofu dishes, seaweed salad and the rest.

The sushi bar is a big part of the place, so it’s no surprise that the best things here were the sushi and sashimi, which were presented properly and as fresh as needed to be. You can find pricier sushi in town, but you are paying more for an elaborate presentation, not necessarily the quality of the food. Try the simple things for best results: nigiri tuna or hamachi, or the raw or lightly smoked salmon.

One well done dish was grilled squid—a large one, sliced into rings, with a slightly blackened exterior that added a smoky touch. A sprightly ginger- and soy-based sauce was just right for the pallid swimmer.

I very much liked the Soy Sauce Ramen. It was a big steaming bowl of egg noodles in a soy sauce spiked with chicken broth that were supplemented by crisp vegetables and shrimp.

And the tempura in general was crisp and not greasy, the effect of good frying technique and proper oil temperature.

The only sour note, so to speak, was an order of steamed shrimp dumplings that seemed to have spent some time in a freezer, which made them rubbery and gummy.

I was pleased with the service, but will admit that my visits were on fairly quiet weeknights, so there could be no excuse for anything but the prompt and friendly attention we got. The décor was plain, but there were two comfortable private rooms—perfect for families with kids or quiet meetings.

There was a full bar, with no interesting wines, but beer is just right with sushi, anyway.

Desserts were, well, Japanese desserts. You may like them.

KIKYO

3706 Riverside Dr.

457-5277

Price range: Appetizers $3.95-$16.50; noodle dishes $7.50-$10.95; sushi rolls $3-$11.50; chef’s choice sushi and sashimi $8.50-$49.50 (platter for two); entrees $8.95-$16.50; desserts $3-$4.

Hours: Monday through Saturday 4 pm to midnight; closed Sunday.

Reservations: Accepted.

Rating: ***