Columbus Monthly / October 2011 / A taste of fall

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A taste of fall

 

Although butternut squash is available year-round, it seems to be more popular on fall and winter menus, says Martini Modern Italian executive chef Peter Chapman.

The downtown restaurant’s butternut squash tortelloni is made from roasted squash and housemade pasta, he says. Blanched Brussels sprout leaves are added to the creamy dish, adding a kick to each bite, Chapman says. Marcona almonds are sprinkled over the pasta after the entree is ready. And because pasta dishes with a cream sauce are likely to develop a layer of film if it sits for more than a couple of minutes, all pastas at Martini are served from a pan onto a plate before the diner. “Tossing table side stops this problem. Plus, it’s cool. It makes you feel like a rock star,” says Chapman.

The pasta “has a little crunch, so there’s texture. It’s sweet with the squash, the sauce is sour and the nuts are a bit salty. It hits all different parts of your palate,” says Chapman. “It’s like a party in your mouth.”

—Taylor Swope 

Openings

Cameron Mitchell Restaurants has acquired the lease for the former Burgundy Room space, 641 N. High St., in the Short North, says vice president of marketing Heather Leonard. While details are in development, Leonard says it will be a new concept for the restaurant group and Columbus. “It’s a great location, and Cameron is always looking for great places,” she says. “We’re very excited.” She adds the restaurant should open by late spring next year.

Another food truck has arrived in town. Tatoheads, owned by Daniel McCarthy, opened in early September. The mobile food truck, which serves soups, sandwiches and “pays homage to the potato,” says McCarthy, isn’t staying in one spot . . . at least for now. To track Tatoheads, visit twitter.com/tatoheads or facebook.com/tatoheads.

The former McFadden’s space in South Campus Gateway, 1576 N. High St., has reopened as The Pub and Restaurant for football season, says owner Dave Magrogan. In December, the space will close until March or April and reopen as Kildare’s Irish Pub after authentic Irish décor and memorabilia arrive from across the pond, he explains. Menu items (now at the Pub and later at Kildare’s) include traditional favorites such as shepherd’s pie and fish and chips. “I love the market in Columbus,” says Magrogan. “It’s a great restaurant town.” The Pub and Restaurant is open daily from 11:30 am to 2 am.

Ronin Sushi Bar & Modern Asian, 6100 Parkcenter Circle, opened in early August in Dublin, says owner Benson Yu. There are Japanese, Chinese and Thai menu items, plus a full bar, he says. The restaurant, which seats 70, is open Monday through Thursday from 11 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday till 11 pm and Sunday till 9:30 pm.

Bethel Road might be on its way to becoming a new restaurant row in Columbus. Buckeye Pho Asian Kitchen, 761 Bethel Rd., opened in mid September, says owner Max Tat, and Aoi Blue Bar, 878 Bethel Rd., debuted in mid August, says owner Jae Jung, who also operates San Su Korean BBQ on the same street.

Buckeye Pho Asian Kitchen serves “healthy, Vietnamese cuisine,” says Tat, who used to work for the Hyatt Regency, Spagio and Cameron Mitchell Restaurants. “The Vietnamese concept is growing in Columbus,” he says. While there is no alcohol served at this time, Tat hopes to obtain a license eventually. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily.

Meanwhile, Aoi is divided into restaurant and bar sections. The restaurant side is more upscale, while the bar area features big-screen TVs and a deejay booth, says Jung. The menu includes several sushi options, such as a lollipop roll (sashimi and cucumber), lobster roll and a volcano roll (crab, caviar, asparagus, avocado and cream cheese). Aoi is open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner and closed Sunday.

Update

Here’s some bad news with an upside. Banana Bean Café has closed, says owner and chef Robin Emrick. However, Coyote Jane’s, which Emrick owns, is still open for business in Banana Bean’s former location, 340 Greenlawn Ave. Emrick says she was running both restaurants and needed to make a change. “Coyote Jane’s was a new concept and people really enjoyed it,” she says. “I went with it because it’s new and did really well.”

The menu still will include the eclectic offerings Columbus has come to expect from Emrick, including popular dishes from Banana Bean’s menu. The atmosphere has changed, too, she says, adding the space has been remodeled into a Santa Fe-style décor. “We’ve gone to great lengths to make sure it’s right,” she adds. Coyote Jane’s is open for lunch and dinner daily and brunch on the weekends.

Meet me at: Paul’s Fifth Avenue

Paul Panzera, who started working at a bakery when he was 7 years old, saved $4,500 over eight years and then opened a restaurant in 1966 when he was just a junior in high school. Panzera would work at Paul’s Pantry on Third Avenue in Grandview before and after school with another staff member filling in for him at the breakfast and lunch space.

Now, 45 years later, the name and location may be different, but the goal hasn’t changed: Paul’s Fifth Avenue, 1565 W. Fifth Ave., strives to serve quality food at a reasonable price.

Owning a restaurant is like having a big family, says Panzera. “That’s the way this business goes. You get to know everybody’s personal wants and needs,” he explains, adding he has even driven customers home. “Maybe the cab never came or the weather is bad,” he says. “It’s that type of interaction we have that’s pretty important.”

Chef and catering director Eric Fladen says the menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner has something for everyone, and he tries to adapt dishes for dietary needs whenever possible. And if you become a regular, you might even see a dish named after you appear on the menu, which Fladen and Panzera have done to honor loyal customers. 

It has been a rough few years for the restaurant industry, but Panzera remains hopeful. “It’s a matter of managing it through the difficult times and, eventually, things work out,” he says. “They have in the past, and I hope they do in the future.”

—Taylor Swope