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This establishment is worthy of a four-star rating.
At Ruth's Chris, clockwise from front: the 11-ounce New York strip, asparagus with hollandaise, crabtini, cabernet sauvignon from Caymus Vineyards and pecan-crusted sweet potato casserole.
Michael A. Foley/MAF Photography
About 45 years ago, a single mom in New Orleans, Ruth Fertel, bought a little steakhouse from a guy named Chris, whose name was absorbed into the business. Thus, the first Ruth’s Chris was born. Due in large measure to the vision and perseverance of Fertel, there now are more than 100 upscale steakhouses nationwide, including one at Crosswoods.
My dining companions and I visited our local Ruth’s Chris and found that the quality of the steaks, sides and service was top notch. While there were a few flaws, such as the overly expensive wines, this establishment is worthy of a four-star rating.
Of course, Ruth’s Chris is about steak: prime, dry-aged beef broiled at extraordinarily high temperatures and served on extremely hot plates sizzling in butter. If that doesn’t sound delicious, you still can go with carnivorous friends and eat well, but the real point of a meal here is the meat. The rib-eye, strip and filet were expertly cooked and just about as good as this kind of beef can get. Beyond steak, there were good lamb chops, chicken dishes and at least two or three types of fresh fish.
We also liked several appetizers and salads. Big portions were the rule, so you may want to share. The sizzling blue lump crab cakes had a teensy bit too much breading, but were otherwise excellent—one of the best of its kind in town. The shrimp cocktail was in fact perfect—large crunchy shrimp cooked (but not too much) and then chilled right before serving, along with a basic, but just right red cocktail sauce.
The fried calamari, however, suffered from an error that seems to be endemic; this dish needs just a whisper of breading, but this version, like so many others, arrived with too much breading—and it was soggy from being sauced before serving. The house salad featured an assemblage of faultless greens, veggies and other goodies, but the chop salad was defeated by excess blue cheese.
With your steak, you should try any of the potato offerings, from shoestring fries to au gratin. The steamed broccoli, creamed spinach and broiled tomatoes (a touch of sugar on top) were delicious.
Our recommended desserts include the fudgy chocolate sin cake and the dense cheesecake.
Service was attentive and well trained—and whether you come here once in a lifetime or once a month, you will be treated with respect and kindness.
Cocktails were mixed well, wines by the glass were a full pour and the wine list was put together nicely. The wine prices, though, reached nearly three times retail in some cases. Painful.
A tip: Consider ordering the three-course dinner for $39.95, with pre-selected appetizers/salads, a petit filet, chicken or fish and dessert. It is a good way to sample the food at a more reasonable price.
—John Marshall
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
7550 High Cross Blvd., Crosswoods
885-2910
ruthschris.com
Price range: Dinner for two, without alcohol, $80 to $150.
Hours: Sunday through Thursday 5 to 9 pm, Friday and Saturday till 10 pm.
Reservations: Accepted.
Rating: ****
