Columbus Monthly / September 2011 / Rivage Atlantique

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Rivage Atlantique

An ambitious menu in Worthington.

 

Just across the street from the excellent Worthington Inn restaurant, Rivage Atlantique features “the cuisine of the Atlantic Coast.”

Of course, we are talking about the North American coast, but even that is a tall order, since it stretches better than 2,000 miles, from essentially Nova Scotia to Key West. Along that long path, there are multiple cuisines, from the chowders of New England to the crab cakes of Maryland to the shrimp and grits of South Carolina and beyond. For the most part, Rivage pulls off these varied dishes well, with a few tasty Italian ones thrown in for good measure.

First, the layout. There is a modest-sized open kitchen near the front door, with a gas-fired pizza hearth and a mix of wooden tables and booths. (A suggestion: Tablecloths in the main dining rooms would warm up the place considerably.) In back is, well, the Back Room, which imitates a small sports bar. I’m told it already has become a convivial gathering place for locals.

Now, for the food. I am happy to report that on two samplings the oysters on the half shell—Malpeque from the North Atlantic and Apalachicola from the bay of the same name in Florida—were quite fresh. If you are concerned about summer oysters from warm waters, stick to the Malpeques. There also were chilled shrimp and raw cherrystone clams.

When I ordered both soups from the menu, Boston clam chowder and Maine lobster bisque, my server assured me that I would love them as they were “perfect examples” of the styles. Overpromising anyone, let alone an anonymous restaurant critic, is a dangerous tactic. But I did like and do recommend both soups. The chowder was creamy, full of fresh-tasting clam meat and chunks of firm potato—a soothing concoction. And while the bisque did suffer from a bit too much thickener, it was rich, nearly brick red and full of lobster shell flavor. If the place used lobster base or did it the old-fashioned way by grinding and cooking some of the shells, I couldn’t tell, but the soup sure was tasty.

Appetizers included oysters Rivage with spinach and a Creole cream (lightly flavored with Pernod, I think). These were fine, but on one sampling somewhat overcooked. I really liked the simple olive tapenade served with bread—there’s not much cooking here, but using good olives and oil and exhibiting a light hand with garlic made this dish worth eating. The Baja (Atlantic Coast?) chile and lime ahi tuna with guacamole seemed to suffer from being cooked, chilled and served much later than it should have been—I’m thinking a long stay in a refrigerator left it flavorless. There were good greens here, including a Caesar and also a spinach and goat cheese. The best of the lot was the organic field greens with crumbled blue cheese, buttermilk dressing and crushed walnuts.

Fish dominated the entrees, from a pan-seared scrod to mahi mahi baked in parchment. Fish with cheese? You might try the sole stuffed with crabmeat and cheese or salmon stuffed with lobster and brie roasted on a cedar plank. For my taste, the simpler the better, and Rivage accommodated me by just roasting a salmon filet on the plank; it was fine.

The best seafood I sampled by far was the Low Country shrimp and grits. The chef knew his grits, and these were super buttery and super yummy. Topped with shrimp and spicy andouille sausage, this dish was well worth the calories.

The menu also sported Land items, such as meatballs on bucatini pasta and spaghetti carbonara (pretty good, but needed pepper and real Parmesan, not that grana padano imposter). There also was a braised short rib, two chicken dishes and a steak aged in house. Pretty ambitious.

Finally, that super hot hearth oven (and the chef, of course) turned out some fine pizza. The Margherita was good (I think it would have been better without roasted garlic, but that’s personal, not fact). The star, though, was the pulled roasted chicken with spinach, green olives and goat cheese on a thin and slightly burnt crust (that’s a good thing). There also was one called Butcher Shop, with sausage, pepperoni and salami, as well as another featuring lobster with ricotta cheese. Go ahead and try them.

The wine selection was modest, but I was impressed with the beers available.

While young and maybe not the most experienced, the servers, who were friendly and prompt, seemed invested in the success of the place.

—John Marshall

 

Rivage Atlantique

652 High St., Worthington

505-7779

rivageatlantique.com

Atmosphere: Could be warmed up with some colorful tablecloths and other décor.

Recommended dishes: Olive tapenade, Boston clam chowder, Maine lobster bisque, oysters on the half shell, Low Country shrimp and grits, organic field greens salad, pulled chicken pizza.

Prices: Soups, salads and appetizers $5.95-$11.95; oysters, clams and shrimp raw bar priced by the piece $1.50-$2.25; entrees $15.95-$24.95; pizzas $10.95-$18.95.

Hours: Monday through Thursday 4 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday till 11 pm; closed Sunday. The Back Room is open Monday through Thursday 4 to 11 pm, Friday till midnight and Saturday 11 am to midnight; closed Sunday.

Service: Young, but prompt and friendly.

Reservations: Accepted.

Rating: ♦♦♦1/2