Columbus Monthly / September 2011 / Setting the bar for your farmers' market

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Setting the bar for your farmers' market

Do you know if your market is making the grade? John Champlin and John Marshall offer valuable tips on what to look for before buying those tomatoes, apples and more.

The farmers’ market has become a ritual in neighborhoods all across Greater Columbus as folks flock to these urban oases. The main attraction, of course, is the bounty of goods: squash, zucchini, tomatoes, corn, green beans, peaches, herbs, pastries, cheese, basil, onions, sunflowers, to name a few. It’s also a good place to get gardening tips (pick those eggplants before the skin turns dull) and some gossip, as well as complain about the relentless heat.

It seems as if new markets pop up regularly. In fact, there are more than 25 farmers’ markets in the area. We’re not sure if you can have too many. While some take cues from the Kroger produce aisle (with attractive, well-organized displays), we think there’s something pleasing about the haphazard displays that are part of many markets—the flimsy card table strewn with a rainbow of chili peppers, a big cooler packed with homemade sausage, hand-scrawled dry erase boards. Or even vendors dressed like a farmer (when they may or may not be one).

We also like this fact: Since the middleman has been eliminated, the many sellers offering their wares can set an attractive price for a better product and still get more for their crop than they would wholesale. It’s a win-win.

Like the produce for sale, farmers’ markets are all about being local. So we’re counting on the fact you go to the one closest to your home—not driving to, say, the Grove City Farmers’ Market if you happen to live in Dublin. But that raises an interesting point: How do you know if your market is, shall we say, a juicy tomato or a bruised peach?

We’re here to help. We have compiled a list of ingredients that go into making a great farmers’ market. There’s some fringe stuff going on at them these days—musicians, craft shows and the like. That’s fine. But we only care about what’s most important: the food, especially the seasonal produce available.

But first, a primer: Each fruit and vegetable has its own story, its own treasured varieties, and there are many interesting differences among them. Farmers’ markets are a good place to learn about these things. Here are a couple of terms to be familiar with:

Heirloom vegetables are those that have been handed down generation to generation, because folks liked them well enough to bother. At the Olde Worthington Summer Farmers’ Market last year, we recall seeing eggplants we had never come across before—white ones, long skinny ones, little round green ones. No doubt, more than a few were somebody’s “heirloom.”

On the other hand, hybrid, not to mention genetically engineered, means the plant was made by processes too complicated for the likes of most of us to comprehend. Just ask the folks selling at the farmers’ market; they’ll explain as much as you care to absorb. Or more.

We haven’t found the perfect farmers’ market yet, although we do have our favorites, such as the one held Saturdays on the grounds of the North Market.

Now, on with our checklist.

Close to home

Don’t get us wrong, we love supermarkets. They do an astonishing job of making a staggering array of food items available year-round at an excellent price. Really, we love them. One of us stops and roams through a supermarket when he vacations in a new town and isn’t even buying food.

But a farmers’ market isn’t about getting food from all over the country. It’s about local and fresh. You want the stuff right off the farm a few miles down the road.

Mostly the vendors will have a sign up telling you about that, because the farmers who offer such things are proud of that fact and want you to know. Of course, if there’s no sign, you can ask. There’s even occasionally a sign that says, “Picked today.” That’s where you’ll find us.

Apples

We’re not looking for the kinds of apples we normally find at the supermarket (we all know the names).

We want local apples, which are a treasure. You should find varieties you have never tried before (then hurry and try them). A couple of our favorites are Ashmead’s Kernel or Cox’s Orange Pippin. You may be able to find them at, for instance, the farmers’ market at the North Market this time of year. If not, there are many heirloom varieties, including some extra tart and crisp ones that make great pie, such as Esopus Spitzenburg or Rhode Island Greening.

Tomatoes

Ever see a big purplish-red Brandywine or a meaty Amish Paste tomato? These are our choices for best tomato flavor. You can find them at several markets, such as the Clintonville Farmers’ Market, in season.

But there are jillions of good tomatoes, in many sizes, shapes and colors: not just red and pink, but also yellow, orange, green, purple and more. Look for Costoluto Genovese, German Pink, Gold Medal, Hungarian Heart or Velvet Red.

Corn

One of us had a grandfather who believed corn absolutely had to be prepared as fresh as possible, because the instant it was picked, the sugars started to convert into starch and the corn lost its flavor and texture. And the same one of us had a dad who used to say you needed to run an electric cord to the corn patch to heat up a kettle of water so you could bend the stalk over and stick the ear in the boiling water.

Now, that’s a lofty but not realistic expectation, so we realize the corn at a farmers’ market may not be that fresh. And these days, due to genetic engineering, the urgency is less—you can get an extra day or even more before declining quality is an issue.

But we’re still pleased when there’s a sign, such as a recent one at the Granville Farmers’ Market, advertising that the corn piled in the back of the truck was picked at 7 am that day—and it wasn’t even noon yet.

We think the heirloom, open-pollinated varieties still taste best. If you’re lucky enough to find Golden Bantam picked that day, you’re in for a treat. Don’t turn your nose up at hybrid varieties, however. For instance, Silver Queen can be exceptional.

Melons, peppers and squash

Melons deserve particular attention, and it’s not always easy to know which are fully ready to eat when browsing a stand at a market. With watermelons, like the old favorite Moon and Stars, knock (gently) and listen for a dull thump. Look at the color of the bottom, hoping for creamy yellow rather than pale green or white. But when you knock a cantaloupe, listen for a dense rather than hollow sound. There are so many good ones that it’s hard to mention just two: OK, try Jenny Lind or Noir des Carmes.

Peppers come in an astonishing array of shapes, colors, spiciness and more. Among hot peppers, it’s mostly a matter of how hot you can stand, of course. Meanwhile, Jimmy Nardello’s is a fine Italian frying pepper and Lipstick, a hybrid variety, has as good a flavor as any sweet pepper we know.

For summer squash, they should be unblemished, firm and with good color (bigger is not necessarily better). We’re particularly fond of zucchini, of which there is a wealth of choices. Black Beauty may be the standard, but there are dozens of good ones, including Costata Romanesco.

Breads

Artisan, small-batch breads are popping up at farmer’s markets everywhere—the modest market in Clintonville has two and sometimes three bread stands.

Some of it is really quite good. Unlike the deals that can be found for seasonal produce, bread prices tend to be high. But in our view, the good ones are worth it. Look for unwrapped, rustic round loaves for the best bet, though we have sampled one or two decent baguettes. If all your market offers is plastic-wrapped sliced rectangular loaves, don’t bother. You can do as well for less at most supermarkets.

Other baked goods

Next to produce, this seems to be the most common offering at the markets we’ve visited. It seems as if everybody and their mother thinks they can make the most scrumptious pies, cakes, muffins, brownies, cupcakes or cookies around, and they want to share them.

Most of the time, they shouldn’t—in our experience, the quality of baked goods is usually not that good. One common belief is that Amish-baked goods are always worth it, but, sadly, that’s not the case—sometimes good, often not.

If you want the best in baked goods, it will be hit or miss at most farmers’ markets. One exception is a little outfit called Sue’s Kitchen. If you come across her stuff (we know she’s at the markets in Granville and Westerville), don’t hesitate.

Cheese

The last five years have seen several new Ohio cheese makers bring their goods to many farmers’ markets. Round here, the best-known is Oakvale Farmstead in Madison County for its superior aged Gouda and other cheeses. (You can find them at the Pearl Alley market, among others).

Another one to look for is Blue Jacket Dairy, which is quite active on the circuit, setting up a stand at markets in Westerville, Clintonville, Dublin, Upper Arlington and Worthington. We highly recommend the creamy chèvre and stellar Farmhouse Feta.

The final word

Check out the names of the farmers who sell at your farmers’ market. You’ll find family farms named after their owners, such as Anderson, Ehrmann & Sons, Thomas, Rhoads. Others are fancifully named, perhaps another way of making clear they care about what they do: Summer Thyme, Wayward Seed, Honeyrun, Toad Hill, Oink Moo Cluck.

Keep track of the ones that please you.

And here’s the last thing: Don’t rush your shopping. Allow time to walk around and admire. It’s a heady experience, historically resonant, aesthetically pleasing and full of human drama.

John Champlin and John Marshall are restaurant reviewers for Columbus Monthly.

 

Vendor Profile

The Crum family: making the circuit

Admittedly, Howard Crum is a bit of a Luddite when it comes to technology. “When people say they’re bringing something up on the computer, I have no idea what they’re talking about,” he says. “When I bring something up, it’s out of a drawer.”

In that sense, Crum certainly is a true farmer’s farmer, a man of the earth, devoted to the soil and its crop. His father bought the family farm, located in Marion County, in 1946. “I was only 4 years old at that time,” Crum says, “and I helped my father farm livestock and grain until he passed away in ’73, and then in ’74 I planted my first strawberries and sweet corn.” He purchased the farm from his mother a few years later. As the years passed, Crum also started to plant tomatoes, blackberries, raspberries, watermelon, muskmelon and currants (his three grown daughters also make jams, jellies and red raspberry vinegar). Highest on the priority list, though, and constantly on Crum’s mind, are strawberries. In the 1980s, he began experimenting with the everbearing variety, which, unlike the typical June-bearing strawberries, produce two to three crops from early summer to as late as November. Asked about his favorite strawberry recipe, Crum responds matter-of-factly. “Well, how can you not like strawberry shortcake?” he says. These days, Crum and his family are active in the farmers’ market circuit. Their tent can be found at Easton, Worthington, Grandview, New Albany and several other locations, and he serves as president of the Pearl Alley Growers’ Association, a network of Ohio farms that participates in a handful of local markets (pearlalleygrowers.com). Nearly 40 years after he planted his first strawberries and sweet corn, Crum says, “It should be called a career, I guess. But it’s not over yet.” Of his daughters, the potential heiresses of his legacy, he adds, “They said, ‘Dad, we’ll do anything you want, but please don’t give us the farm!’ ”

—Ben Zenitsky

 

Vendor profile

Cathy Persinger: experienced newcomer

There’s a newcomer to Pearl Market this year, but Cathy Persinger of Persinger Farms certainly knows what she’s doing. She grew up on a farm and has been selling produce since she was a little girl, helping at her parents’ sweet corn roadside stand.

In 1980, she and her husband, Rock, bought the land that’s now known as Persinger Farms, between Xenia and Washington Court House. With 8,000 acres of corn and soy, as well as a 15-acre garden, the couple has sold enough fruits and veggies to help put their four daughters through college. The daughters, now adults, have kids of their own, and the whole family pitches in during the growing season. Cathy says some of the grandkids even have picking preferences: one likes peppers, another tomatoes. Cathy has set up shop at various farmers’ markets in her native Greene County, but recently has made Columbus her exclusive selling grounds. This is her first year at Pearl Market (held on Tuesdays and Fridays downtown in Pearl Alley, between Broad and Gay streets), but she’s been selling at the North Market on Saturdays for seven years. Persinger Farms arguably has one of the best produce selections at Pearl Market, selling both fruits and vegetables (on a recent visit, she had melons and blackberries, in addition to okra, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, green onions and cucumbers, to name a few). She’s even sold potted basil for visitors to take home and plant in their gardens. Toward the end of the growing season, she says her stand is filled with pumpkins, squash and other gourds. Selling at farmers’ markets isn’t a main source of income, however. During the school year, she works as an office secretary at Jamestown Junior High School. For Cathy, the markets are more of a hobby that happens to make her some extra cash. And Cathy and Rock plan to use some of that money to help build college funds for their grandchildren.

—Emma Frankart

 

Vendor profile

Alpaca Meadows: exotic offerings

Quick, name the one item in this group that can’t be found at Easton Town Center: a sequined camouflage handbag from J. Crew, a sterling silver heart lock bracelet from Tiffany & Co. and a knitted cat toy made out of alpaca fur.

It’s a trick question. They all can be purchased at Easton. That is, if you include the items at the Easton Farmers’ Market, which debuted this year in one of the mega shopping complex’s many parking lots. Among the vendors there is Alpaca Meadows, a Mansfield-based farm owned by Julie and Matt Petty. The couple fell in love with the camelids during a visit to a farm with their children one summer several years ago, and raising them, according to Julie (shown), “looked like something we thought we’d enjoy doing.” Despite having no farming experience (“the closest thing we’d ever been to a farm was ‘Green Acres’ on TV,” says Matt), the couple opened Alpaca Meadows, where Julie, who specializes in crafts, began incorporating alpaca fur into her daily works. Though strikingly exotic and foreign to most American farmers and consumers (alpacas are native to the Andes Mountains in South America), the animals are surprisingly simple to care for, the Pettys say. “They don’t get sick easily and can roam on a relatively smaller amount of land” than cattle, Julie says. Adds her husband, “They don’t eat a whole lot.” Alpaca fur, noted for its incredible softness, is the luxurious older sibling of wool, with many similar uses. Among the items the Pettys sell at their farm, from their tent and on their website (alpacameadows.com) are hats, scarves, mittens, rugs, sweaters and novelty toys—all made entirely of alpaca fur. Additionally on sale are alpacas themselves. Ranging from roughly $2,000 to $12,000, the animals are priced according to their proportion—their overall shape—and the quality of their fleece. “We want to be producing a soft, luxurious fleece,” Julie says. “It all depends on their diet and bloodline. All of that comes into play when figuring out their price.” Hold back your excitement, though. The alpacas are available at the farm only, not at Easton. And even so, it’s doubtful they’d let you ride them.

—Ben Zenitsky

 

Price check

It’s easy to fill your basket at a farmers’ market. From just-picked produce and freshly laid eggs to handmade artisan cheeses and pure raw honey from local hives, there are plenty of delicious deals to be had. We visited three farmers’ markets to see what we could snag between $25 and $30. Fortunately, the endless samples we feasted on were free.

North Market Farmers’ Market

• A dozen brown eggs from Oink Moo Cluck Farms: $2.50

• Mini black raspberry pie from Shady Brook Farm: $3.25

• Habanero heifer gouda from Oakvale Farmstead: $5

• Sunflowers from Anderson Orchard: $6

• Tart green apples from Thomas Family Orchard: $5

• Mixed salad greens from Rock Dove Farm: $3

• Garlic bulb from Blossom Acres: $1

• Eight ounces of fall honey from Honeyrun Farm: $4

Total: $29.75

Easton Farmers’ Market

• One zucchini from Novo Terra Farm: $1

• A baker’s dozen of sweet corn from Witten Farm: $5

• A head of cauliflower from Wishwell Farms: $3

• One bunch of Oriental lilies from Sunny Meadows Flower Farm: $10

• A jalapeño and cheddar baguette from Weed Knob Acres: $5

• One bag of corn tortilla chips from Shagbark Seed & Mill: $4

• One cup of chicken gizzards from Frijolito Farm: $2

Total: $30

Pearl Market

• Four pickling cucumbers from Bergefurds Farm Market & Greenhouses: $1

• Two yellow squash from Paige’s Produce: $1

• Two pounds of okra from Henson Farms: $4

• One quart of green beans from Wishwell Farms: $2

• Three-quarters of a pound of beets from Dangling Carrot Farm: $2

• One quart of baby potatoes from Persinger Farms: $2.50

• A dozen free-range eggs from Harley’s Family Farm: $4

• Eight ounces of tomato basil pine nut cheese from Ohio Farm Direct: $6

• Four-ounce bag of granola from SimplyGoodGranola: $2

• Mini sweet potato pie from Shirley’s Sweet Potato Pies: $2

Total: $26.50

 

Getting your market off the ground

Interested in starting your own farmers’ market? Here’s a quick guide.

• Do your homework, according to Christie Welch, a farmers’ market specialist with the Ohio State University South Centers in Piketon. “Visit as many farmers’ markets as you can the year before you start,” she says. “Adopt their best practices, get a sense of the challenges they face and ask as many questions as you can.”

Next, take a look at the feasibility of running a successful market at the spot you’ve chosen. “Based on your intended location, what’s the likelihood that you’re going to be able to attract vendors, consumers? What kind of community support would you have?” Welch says.

According to an early August report from the USDA, Ohio has 278 farmers’ markets, the fifth-most in the United States. For farmers looking to sell, there certainly are plenty of options. “If I’m a vendor, I’m going to look for where I can make the most money,” Welch says.

• Once a location is nailed down, register your farmers’ market with the Ohio Department of Agriculture’s Division of Food Safety. “They have the overarching regulatory position to oversee markets throughout Ohio,” Welch says, adding that the local health department will also need to be notified.

The kinds of regulations required depend on the products being sold. Vendors selling beef, for example, will need to get licensed by the health department where they reside. “If your market is registered with the ODA and you’re only selling fresh fruits and vegetables, then you are not subject to regulation by the local health department,” Welch says. “ODA provides that exemption.”

Though putting all this together might seem simple to a casual market shopper, she says, “There’s a lot more work involved than most people realize.”

—Ben Zenitsky

 

WHERE TO FIND THEM

Here’s a list of neighborhood farmers’ markets in Franklin, Delaware, Fairfield and Licking counties.

BEXLEY FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Parking lot at 2111 E. Main St.

WHEN: Thursday 4-7 pm (through Oct. 27).

WEBSITE: bexleyfarmersmarket.com

BLENDON TOWNSHIP FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Blendon Township Complex, 6350 Hempstead Rd.

WHEN: Thursday 3 to 6 pm (through October).

WEBSITE: blendontwp.org

CANAL WINCHESTER FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Downtown Canal Winchester in public space adjacent to 36 S. High St.

WHEN: Wednesday 5 to 7 pm (through Oct. 15).

WEBSITE: thecwfm.com

CLINTONVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: North High Street and West Dunedin Road in Clintonville.

WHEN: Saturday 9 am to noon (until Oct. 29).

WEBSITE: clintonvillefarmersmarket.org

COLUMBUS COMMONS

Location: Columbus Commons park, downtown.

WHEN: Wednesday 10:30 am to 2 pm (ends Aug. 31).

WEBSITE: columbuscommons.org

DOWNTOWN POWELL FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: City of Powell Municipal Building parking lot, 47 Hall St.

WHEN: Thursday 3 to 6 pm (through September).

WEBSITE: visitpowell.com

DUBLIN FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Parking lot of Dublin Community Church, 81 W. Bridge St.

WHEN: Wednesday 4:30 to 6:30 pm (through September).

WEBSITE: dublin.oh.us/community/market.php

EASTON FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Parking lot between Fadó Irish Pub and West Elm.

WHEN: Thursdays 3 to 7 pm (through September).

WEBSITE: eastonfarmersmarket.org

GRANDVIEW FARMERS’ MARKET

LOCATION: Parking lot next to Figlio and VinoVino, 1371 Grandview Ave.

WHEN: Saturdays 10 am to 1 pm (through Oct. 29).

WEBSITE: fifthbynorthwest.org

GRANVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: North Main Street on Saturday; 484 S. Main St. on Tuesday.

WHEN: Saturday 8:30 am to noon (through Oct. 22) and Tuesday 3:30 to 6:30 pm (through Sept. 13).

WEBSITE: granvillechamberofcommerce.com

GROVE CITY FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Grove City Town Center at Broadway and Park Street.

WHEN: Saturday 8 am to noon (through Sept. 10).

WEBSITE: gcchamber.org

GROVEPORT FARMERS’ MARKET & MORE

Location: Groveport Park, 7370 Groveport Rd.

WHEN: Thursday 4 to 7:30 pm (through Sept. 15).

WEBSITE: center4gmhn.org

JEFFERSON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Jefferson Community Park, 7494 Clark State Rd. south of New Albany.

WHEN: Saturday 9 am to noon (through Oct. 1).

WEBSITE: jeffersontownship.org

JOHNSTOWN FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: North Main and West Coshocton streets.

WHEN: Saturday 9 am to noon (through October).

WEBSITE: downtownjohnstown.org

LANCASTER FARMERS’ MARKET ASSOCIATION

Location: The bandstand in downtown Lancaster, Broad Street between East Main and Wheeling streets.

WHEN: Wednesday 10 am to 1 pm (through Sept. 28) and Saturday

8 am to noon (through Oct. 29).

WEBSITE: lancasterfarmersmarket.org

LOCKBOURNE FARMER’S MARKET

Location: Jack Boot Square, 85 Commerce St.

WHEN: Saturday 9 am to noon (through Sept. 3).

WEBSITE: www.lockbourneohio.us

THE MARKET AT 15TH & HIGH

Location: Plaza in front of Wexner Center for the Arts on High Street across from 15th Avenue.

WHEN: Thursday 3:30 to 6:30 pm (through Oct. 27).

WEBSITE: wexarts.org

NATIONWIDE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Parking lot next to 574 S. 18th St.

WHEN: Monday 11:30 am to 1:30 pm (Sept. 12 and Oct. 10).

WEBSITE: nationwidechildrens.org

NATIONWIDE PEARL ALLEY GROWERS (DOWNTOWN)

Location: Northwest corner of Nationwide Boulevard and High Street.

WHEN: Thursday 11 am to 2 pm (through October).

WEBSITE: pearlalleygrowers.com

NATIONWIDE PEARL ALLEY GROWERS (DUBLIN)

Location: Parking lot of the Nationwide Insurance complex, 5455 Rings Rd.

WHEN: Wednesday 11 am to 1:30 pm (through October).

WEBSITE: pearlalleygrowers.com

NEW ALBANY FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Market Street Square, 200 Market St.

WHEN: Thursday 4 to 7 pm (through Sept. 8).

WEBSITE: nafarmersmarket.com

NORTH MARKET FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: North Market east patio, 59 Spruce St.

WHEN: Saturday 8 am to 3 pm (through late October/early November).

WEBSITE: northmarket.com

OLDE WORTHINGTON SUMMER FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Downtown Worthington, High Street and Rt. 161.

WHEN: Saturday 9 am to noon (through October).

WEBSITE: owba.net

PATASKALA AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE FARMERS MARKET

Location: Pataskala Veterans’ Green, Front and Main streets.

WHEN: Friday 4 to 8 pm (through Sept. 9).

WEBSITE: pataskalachamber.com

PEARL ALLEY GROWERS AT COLUMBUS SQUARE

LOCATION: Columbus Square Shopping Center, Cleveland Avenue and Rt. 161.

WHEN: Tuesday 4 to 6 pm (through October).

WEBSITE: pearlalleygrowers.com

PEARL MARKET

LOCATION: Pearl Alley between Broad, High, Gay and Third streets.

WHEN: Tuesday and Friday 10:30 am to 2 pm (through Oct. 28).

WEBSITE: downtowncolumbus.com/pearlmarket

REYNOLDSBURG FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: 1520 Davidson Dr. in Huber Park just south of the No. 6 traffic light on Main Street.

WHEN: Thursday 3:30 to 6:30 pm (through Sept. 29).

WEBSITE: ci.reynoldsburg.oh.us/farm_market.aspx

SUNBURY FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Sunbury Square, East Granville and South Vernon streets.

WHEN: Saturday 9 am to noon (through Oct. 15).

WEBSITE: facebook.com/sunburyfarmersmarket

UPPER ARLINGTON FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Upper Arlington Senior Center, 1945 Ridgeview Rd.

WHEN: Wednesday 3:30 to 6:30 pm (through Oct. 12).

WEBSITE: uaoh.net

UPTOWN WESTERVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET

Location: Corner of East Home Street and North State Street.

WHEN: Wednesday 3 to 6 pm (through October).

WEBSITE: marketwednesday.com