PARIS (AP) - Avant-garde romantic Rick Owens is always full of surprises.

PARIS (AP) Avant-garde romantic Rick Owens is always full of surprises.

This fall-winter 2013-14, it came in the form of what Owens called "wedding cake" stitching alongside billowing-sleeved Samurai silhouettes, and models with wild, Wagnerian hair.

The Gothic edge to much of Owen's bichrome repertoire should not fool anyone: What he does is always genuinely subtle.

Here in Paris, there were plays on form and proportion.

Oversize white tunics and black fabric layers seem haphazard but were in fact delivered delicately, with soft architecture: the first look's white hanging robe frames the sectioned, column silhouette.

Elsewhere, collars like flaccid marzipan in celebratory cakes unfurled down from the neck; while a few white stitches, that he used sparingly, succeeded in dominating and defining whole looks in black.

And only someone as talented as Owens can make duffel coats beautiful seen here, at the warehouse show, with oversize toggles that hung like shells with dynamic movement.

"This collection was a celebration of some of my favorite things," Owens said.

By the applause he got, it seems he's not alone.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP