PARIS (AP) - It was the white collars and sublime colors of Vermeer's masterpiece "The Girl with the Pearl Earring" on the mood board for Valentino's ready-to-wear show in Paris on Tuesday.

PARIS (AP) It was the white collars and sublime colors of Vermeer's masterpiece "The Girl with the Pearl Earring" on the mood board for Valentino's ready-to-wear show in Paris on Tuesday.

Using the Flemish masters as a starting point for fall-winter 2013-14, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered a more varied silhouette than last season in vase, trapeze, tulip and column shaped. It was a welcome change.

"It's for different women for different moments," said Piccioli of the collection which featured Dutch floral patterns, rich reds and royal blue.

Short-skirted, sexy looks signaled a slight relaxing for the house known for its austere edge. And, incredibly, some short looks cut with a cool circular edge pattern in red, pale pink, green and blue even came across sporty.

But this is Valentino.

The high white Flemish-style collar and frequent full-length sleeves ensured this was not forgotten.

"It's severity with the idea of sensuality," Chiuri said.

Not all the looks worked. A red dress with white fur collar looked overly theatrical but this was unimportant, given the show's rich pickings.

___

Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP