PARIS (AP) - Swimwear and naval themes inspired Anthony Vaccarello this season.

PARIS (AP) Swimwear and naval themes inspired Anthony Vaccarello this season.

But if only it could be this simple.

For spring-summer 2014 the young Belgian designer infused these references with his signature no-holds-barred raunchiness.

Most of the 34 looks dripped with sex appeal in their melange of plunging necklines and breast-exposing mesh tops. That's not to mention myriad revealing straps which held together cave-woman style loin cloths.

At points, ensembles evoked the aura of Donatella Versace.

But it was pure overkill with one splash-dye, cropped, white demin jacket which jarred against a split microskirt with red and black leather straps.

The best designs were, predictably, those that kept it simple.

One all-black look nicely twinned a thick, textured cropped T-shirt with a cotton vest that only slightly exposed the midriff. It was twinned with sober and classical black pants.

Another nude, sparkling sheer minidress worked well but only thanks to the simplicity of its silhouette, which was given a lift with huge, oversize studs.

The designer revealed backstage that these shiny studs were, in fact, smooth rounded gems. It was a rare, lovely touch.

Next season Vaccarello might do well to tone it down a notch or three.

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Thomas Adamson can be reached at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP