c.2014 New York Times News Service
c.2014 New York Times News Service
NEW YORK — Runway beauty looks, usually concocted with some alien She-Ra in mind, are hard to translate into “trends” relatable to the average Jane. But this Fashion Week, a clear divide appeared between minimalist and maximalist makeup. Herein, experts who applied it explain how to attempt the same thing at home (if you dare).
The “no makeup” look has picked up steam, not to mention some unattractive sheen, in recent years; this year it was more restrained. At the Jason Wu show, Diane Kendal sought to create an “effortless look that balances out the sophistication of Jason’s collection,” she said. Upper lash lines were thinly lined with black Lancôme liquid Artliner 24H and paired with a boxy, tomboyish brow (Kendal used pencil to fill in gaps on models with sparse arches).
A day later, backstage at Prabal Gurung, Kendal said she was thinking of “Nepalese women and Cecily Brown paintings,” when freshening eyes with white eyeliner on the lower inner rims and rubbing the apples of cheeks with rosy MAC Cremesheen lipstick in Party Line for the flush that says, “I’ve just spent the day in the Himalayas.”
The great outdoors seemed to be a theme. For the Tess Giberson collection, Dick Page drew upon prairies and camping, with shimmering taupe shadows by Shiseido in Leather, Sable and Shoyu, and blushed cheeks. At Thakoon, Kendal said she was inspired by the healthy ruddiness of Pacific Northwest women, dabbing pink illuminator on the cheeks, lining the lower lash line with chocolate Nars eye pencil in Mambo, and capping off the effect with subtle contouring in the eye crease. “It’s as if she’s done her makeup herself,” Kendal said of her fantasy gal, adding that real-life women can define their eyes for fall with browns, golds and beiges.
If your beauty aspirations don’t require, well, beauty, then you might try Kendal’s “futuristic and androgynous” look, as she described it (we call it eerily robotic), for Alexander Wang. First, bleach brows for 20 minutes. Then, slap on some foundation and swipe Nars multiple stick in Copacabana into eye contours and under the cheekbone. No mascara, no liner — we told you this was minimalist!
Romy Soleimani who teamed with Beauty.com for the Richard Chai show, drew hazy clouds of green shimmer around the eye and brushed on multiple coats of pitch black mascara. “I’m feeling like color is making a comeback,” Soleimani said, “and thank goodness it’s not paired with super shiny skin, which is just not flattering.”
For Creatures of the Wind, James Boehmer lined the lower lash line with Nars pencil in Khao San Road, a light-catching turquoise. The Revlon collaborator Gucci Westman played up the same area. “There’s something about winter that seems to say more eye makeup,” she said backstage at Rag & Bone. For the show, she layered gel and liquid black liner, inky and fat, along the upper lids. “I was thinking Katharine Hepburn, but I didn’t want to make it too retro,” she said, pointing out the eyeliner was off kilter. “It should come off like when a girl walks by, and dang, she has that one trick to make her look really great, like a Kate Moss.”
Tom Pecheux preferred a messy, almost slept-in look. For Peter Som, lips were painted a sedate brown, “the color of bird poo,” Pecheux said, chuckling. Eyes were darkened with olive cream shadow, patted down with gray powder shadow and defined with black liner and multiple coats of black mascara. On top, he glopped on MAC clear Lipglass for a messy sheen. “It’s a fashion woman, but I wanted real makeup, not just runway,” he said. “In real life, you don’t take off all of your mascara. Well, none of my female friends do, but maybe because they are French.”
For Derek Lam, Pecheux colored even farther outside the lines with “pools” of green and gray Estée Lauder shadow around each eye, for a look that could be described as “bandit chic.”) At Altuzarra, he paired the party colors of pink shadow and brass glitter, using a MAC hothouse-pink lipstick, Good Kisser, available later this year, in lieu of shadow. “Fashion is fantasy,” he said with a shrug.
Never more so at Rodarte, where models wore reddish brown Nars shadow, from the Dolomites Duo out this fall, applied intensely across the entire lid and even into the brows. Mauve lips were then encrusted with pink glitter. “We talked about childhood nostalgia and how we remember it a certain way,” James Kaliardos, the lead makeup artist, said of his conversations with the designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy. “You sort of romanticize it, and certain images and fairy tales stick with you and influence how you see beauty.”
But elsewhere Yadim Carranza, for Maybelline, worked on pedestrians and professional models, both of whom were cast for the show. “If a girl came in and said her usual trademark is a red lip, we’ll give her a red lip,” he said. “It’s really about individuality.” Besides, he said, “It speaks to the girl at home.”