MILAN (AP) - If turmoil brings innovation and renovation, Italian menswear is in for a creative burst.

MILAN (AP) If turmoil brings innovation and renovation, Italian menswear is in for a creative burst.

Fashion houses are continuing their reboot of Milan Fashion Week menswear offerings, with notables like Bottega Veneta and Gucci sitting out this round, preferring to combine menswear and womenswear previews next month. That is making room for a plethora of newcomers.

The data indicates that menswear is worth the re-think. Euromonitor market research forecasts that between now and 2020, growth in sales for men's attire and accessories globally will outpace that of women. Last year alone, Italian menswear produced 9 billion euros in revenue.

Here are some highlights Saturday of menswear previews for next fall and winter on the first day of Milan Fashion Week:


Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted classics through the decades with a modern edge for his youthful Emporio Armani line.

Armani is hewing to the traditional menswear and womenswear calendars, but blurring the line on the runway.

Many of the looks were feminized, like flowing knitwear or curved hemlines on short jackets. Trousers tended to be ample and pleated, and Armani employed luxurious fabrics like velvets for men and lots of fur, both as trim and full fur coats.

Double-breasted suits with soft helmlines and loose trousers recalled a 1940s cool, while fur collars on overcoats harkened to a 1970s mod.

Armani mixed geode-like patterns with plaids, sticking with gray scale to black for a contemporary urban feel. Thick, furry neck warmers framed the face, while molded brim hats topped the sophisticated silhouette.

Hair was slicked back and footwear had thick traction soles. Bags included big pockets on cross-body halters. The color palette was classic: gray, black, tan and olive green.



Alessandro Sartori made his debut Friday evening as the creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna in a monumental style, sending his creations down a runway flanked by Anselm Kiefer's towering installation of The Seven Heavenly Palaces at Pirelli's cavernous Hangar Bicocca.

The looks exuded relaxed sophistication, as tailoring altered sportswear, or vice versa. Or, as the brand said in its press notes, Sarotori's "new aesthetic ... evolves and breaks codes, relying on intense textures and keen constructions that define new functions."

Elasticized cuffs on trousers and gathers on jackets created an active feel on looks that were completed with sneakers. Felted cashmere suits had the simplicity of jersey, with quilted arms in contrast colors to create a vest effect over kimono neckline shirts.

Nubby Casentino felt from Tuscany was created from cashmere and alpaca, suggesting ease but underlining elegance in loose-fitting suits. Cozy accents included high necks, big gloves and droopy caps.

Colors tended toward gray, tan and black neutrals while turquoise and white popped up on leather jackets and large knits.