Remember Sunday suppers that were as revered as the church service that inevitably preceded them? La Tavola, any day of the week, is as close as we can get to recapturing those memories without doing any dishes.

Remember Sunday suppers that were as revered as the church service that inevitably preceded them? The table was laden with something cooked slow-maybe pot roast or lasagna-all the fixin's and maybe a bottle of wine for the grownups. La Tavola, any day of the week, is as close as we can get to recapturing those memories without doing any dishes. Rick and Krista Lopez's reincarnated neighborhood Italian place is all heart, from the homespun atmosphere to Tortelloni en Brodo, hand-stuffed and dimpled tortelloni that wade ankle-deep in a comforting broth. Want a sure bet? Go directly for the specials board, where we found a memorable filet of cod covered in a lively puttanesca-inspired ragu. Or visit on Sundays, when Lopez puts the regular menu aside. For the obscenely low price of $15, diners get their choice of starter and entree.

At La Tavola, wine is served in no-frills glasses. Bread-made in the restaurant and of the soft, dense, generously floured Italian variety-is delivered in a paper bag with a little dish of olive oil (dip deeply to attract some craggy flakes of salt). All that's missing is the oversharing uncle, though he's welcome, too. Want a quiet, candlelit night out? Head somewhere else. But if it's love, a full belly, lots of garlic and the occasional kid scampering around you crave-just like those Sunday suppers of years ago-this is your place. latavolagrandview.com