Gahanna Grill bills itself as "Home of the World Famous Beanie Burger," a sandwich that was once named one of the top 100 burgers in the nation, according to a sign outside the restaurant.

And so, of course, that's what I ordered. The Beanie Burger is a bacon cheeseburger (you can also order it as a double bacon cheeseburger) topped with housemade coleslaw, sauteed onions, lettuce and tomato. I don't know if the trend toward gourmet burgers has made me too jaded to appreciate a good, old-fashioned hamburger or what, but for whatever reason, this just didn't do it for me. The patty itself is fine, but the toppings are unanimously supbar: especially the bland American cheese and a pile of unremarkable, chopped-to-bits, watery coleslaw.

Maybe I would've enjoyed it more if I got to meet Beanie, the sandwich's charismatic namesake, who's been grilling up these things for decades. But instead it was served by a harried waiter during a mobbed lunch hour, negating much of the charm of eating at this place (which, I believe, is pretty much always slammed).

I actually liked this one, the Academy Burger, much better. It's got Swiss cheese rather than American, and also comes with bacon and grilled onions. Just a straightforward, tasty burger.

I did love the fries--fantastically crunchy, greasy, double-dunked steak fries. Yum. Oh, and I'm also pretty fond of those neat Gahanna Grill logo-d plates. So what do you think? Am I missing something here?

Gahanna Grill
82 Granville St., Gahannna
614-476-9017
gahannagrill.com