If you've only brunched at Worthington Inn, you haven't really experienced Worthington Inn. My own first foray into the grand old hotel was a brunch visit, and while I appreciated the inn's well-worn, wallpapered charm, I was underwhelmed by the made-for-the-masses buffet setup. And so when I finally made it back for a proper dinner, I was thoroughly blown away.

If youíve only brunched at Worthington Inn, you havenít really experienced Worthington Inn. My own first foray into the grand old hotel was a brunch visit, and while I appreciated the innís well-worn, wallpapered charm, I was underwhelmed by the made-for-the-masses buffet setup. And so when I finally made it back for a proper dinner, I was thoroughly blown away.

See, brunch service here has been offered for ages, long predating current chef Thomas Smith, and itís such an institution among well-heeled Columbus diners it really canít be tinkered with.

But at dinner (and lunch and happy hour and late at night), chef Smith gets to play around to his heartís content. And what he comes up with is beautifully plated, hearty American fare made with sustainable ingredients sourced from local farms.

Consider, for example, chicken from Kingís Poultry Farm in Bradford, Ohio. Smith roasts it, carves it, and serves a gorgeous, gleaming, mustard-glazed half-chicken with a changing array of seasonal sidesórecently, thatís been rich mashed potatoes and lemony asparagus spears.

He incorporates that same chicken in fabulous ravioliósmoked and pulled, itís combined with fontina before being packaged inside handmade ravioli and served with roasted sweet corn, sun-dried tomatoes and red onion in a garlicky sauce.

Photos by Tessa Berg