I'd like to take the time to give props to an outstanding vegetarian dish, the kind of thing that makes me believe that I could (one day, theoretically) do the whole vegetarian thing without going into withdrawal. It's G. Michael's Roasted Spaghetti Squash Pancake, and it's the best thing I ate all week.

I'd like to take the time to give props to an outstanding vegetarian dish, the kind of thing that makes me believe that I could (one day, theoretically) do the whole vegetarian thing without going into withdrawal. It's G. Michael's Roasted Spaghetti Squash Pancake, and it's the best thing I ate all week.

Basically, it's a couple of "pancakes" made of roasted spaghetti squash that's been shredded, pattied and pan-fried until the exterior is crispy and almost smoky in flavor. On top are some bread-and-butter pickled Vidalia onions topped with a huge tangle of carrot ribbons, asparagus pieces, broccolini, roasted red pepper strips and arugula, and then drizzled in a sauce that's described as "candied tomato cream."

Now, I've never heard of a candied tomato cream sauce so I can't tell you exactly what's in this stuff (and the cream part makes it not vegan, of course), but this sauce is nothing short of a revelation. It tastes like tomatoes, yes, but also somehow like cheese. And combined with the smokiness of the roasted squash, that somehow makes the whole dish taste like really great pizza. Only it's entirely vegetables. I'm not sure how Chef David Tetzloff managed such a thing, but he did.

So go try it while you can. And if you go soon and you're NOT a vegetarian, I also highly recommend ordering the super-seasonal soft-shell crab small plate. The rich plate has a whole crunchy crab served atop a pickly vegetable slaw and topped with jicama matchsticks and some lemon zest. Ah, summer.