I'm not the biggest fan of chicken wings. Especially the standard spicy bar wings, which are 90 percent bone, skin and hot sauce and 10 percent actual meat. Too much work and not enough reward to eat through a basket of that! But I have been enjoying a wave of what I'll call "artisan wings."

I'm not the biggest fan of chicken wings. Especially the standard spicy bar wings, which are 90 percent bone, skin and hot sauce and 10 percent actual meat. Too much work and not enough reward to eat through a basket of that! But I have been enjoying a wave of what I'll call "artisan wings." These generally meatier and more flavorful wings go hand-in-hand with the gastropub trend that's all the rage right now in Columbus. And the new wings Ray Ray's is serving at Ace of Cups, while not much meatier than your average pub wings, are masterful enough that I'm lumping them into the artisan category and calling myself a fan.

Ray Ray's pit boss smokes his chicken wings before deep-frying them, then offers them in mix-and-match varieties thanks to multiple dry rub and sauce options. On the server's suggestion I went with the house dry rub and a sampler of all three sauces: buffalo wing sauce, sriracha barbecue sauce and habanero likker. I liked the classic buffalo sauce best, but all three were winners.

And on the side, you can add on sliced fried plantains served with a sriracha mayo dipping sauce. A delicious sweet treat with a hefty spice kick, best washed down with an ice cold beer. Yeah, I'll be ordering a lot more of these this summer.