Dining at Till Dynamic Fare is always an adventure. You never know what may spring from the biodynamic mind of chef Magdiale Wolmark. He revamped his vegan-centric Dragonfly two years ago into this neighborhood concept that has the no-frills vibe of a local hangout, but the chef-inspired, frequently changing menu expected at a fine dining eatery.

Dining at Till Dynamic Fare is always an adventure. You never know what may spring from the biodynamic mind of chef Magdiale Wolmark. He revamped his vegan-centric Dragonfly two years ago into this neighborhood concept that has the no-frills vibe of a local hangout, but the chef-inspired, frequently changing menu expected at a fine dining eatery.

(And if recent visits are an indicator, the once-too-leisurely service is more attentive and prepared to explain the chef's vision behind dishes. A fair warning, for example, that the Hot Brandade, a salt cod spread, would be rather salty, managed expectations for a fishy, but delicious starter.)

True, Till excels at the items we'd look to as everyday fare, like pizzas and burgers, but they are crafted with such care that makes eating here feel like a treat. All dishes focus on sustainable and organic raising of products-many of which Wolmark grows in Till's backyard garden.

And we love that he never seems to forget his vegan clientele, catering to them in a way that would leave even the most carnivorous diners none the wiser. Most soups, for example, are vegan, thickened with rice, creamed with soy milk and birthed with vegetable stock. Wolmark has an ability to coax deep, meaty flavors out of vegetables, making them the star of many of his dishes. Take a salmon special with beet borscht and black beans, house-made cream cheese toast and cured salmon on top. The shiitake mushrooms swimming in the broth might as well have been chunks of steak.

With a cocktail and wine program that continues to excel, and a Jewish-style deli hopefully opening in early 2014, we expect to continue to see good things grow out of this Victorian Village spot.

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