In a landscape awash with fusion-style cuisine and “build-a-bowl” concepts, Upper Arlington's Fukuryu Ramen is refreshingly lacking in food gimmicks. If anything, the Japanese ramen shop looks to Japan for trends and keeps its ramen quick, hot and authentic.

While the international chain (with a sister location in Australia) has its noodles made just for them by a partner in Lewis Center, it's the broths that take center stage in these hearty soups.

In Black Dragon Ramen, sesame paste lends an almost creamy texture, while the squid ink influences the deep black color. And while Columbus is hardly the hub of ramen, the pork bone-based tonkotsu ramen is top-notch. The latter is a pork lover's dream with fall-apart pork balanced in color and flavor by crisp, bright green onions.

The menu includes house-made soft serve, local beers and an array of tempting small plates. The Japanese fried chicken and the pork belly on rice—when available—are solid choices. A bright atmosphere and upbeat music make the shop lively. For those who find parking to be a challenge, the restaurant—which will open a second Central Ohio location in Dublin's Bridge Park this spring—has plenty of delivery options for those who order online.