Kinetic K-pop videos create a fitting backdrop inside this energetic, LA-style, DIY, Korean barbecue establishment. Occupying the radically rehabbed former San-Su space, Gogi is a bustling, mammoth place where every meal is like a party. For willing diners, this can involve the built-in entertainment of an indoor cookout. That's why this casual but fashionable eatery—which features handsome wood, illuminated green bottles and corrugated aluminum—is equipped with inset grills on every table. There, patrons ordering from the “Korean barbecue” pages of the large, photo-filled menu can sear an enticing variety of proteins (“gogi” is Korean for “meat”). It's fun and easier than it sounds, especially with “Combo C,” which offers pre-marinated, cooks-in-minutes bulgogi, beef short ribs and pork ribs. This feeds-four feast also includes, as do many meals, a ton of refillable little appetizers and sides called banchan, plus hearty bean-paste soup (think Korean minestrone), rice, a steamed egg and more. Diners and first-timers who eschew cooking their own food can target fully prepared, excellent renditions of soon tofu and dolsot bibimbap made with an uncommon option of proteins (e.g. seafood and chicken). To get your party started—or keep it going—Gogi also offers a locally unsurpassed selection of Korean booze.