Perseverance and flexibility paid off in 2016 for Phuntso Lama and her husband. The folks behind Momo Ghar were rejected twice by North Market before claiming a space inside another busy but much more northern market. It took Lama four days to sign a lease after seeing a vacant location inside Saraga International Grocery on Morse Road. Since opening on Memorial Day weekend, her restaurant has doubled its seating capacity by adding two tables alongside its limited counter service to help meet demand. One thing is clear: Columbus is ready for momos, the handmade Nepali dumplings that Lama and her growing crew make by the thousands, weekly.

For fans of spice, an order of chicken choila, an appetizer platter served cold with black-eyed peas, peppery grilled chicken and baara, a delightful fried lentil pancake, is a must.

But, really, it's all about the momos. A favorite is alu momo, a vegetarian pan-fried distant cousin of the samosa, with creamy mashed potatoes and peas. No trip is complete without the best-seller, jhol momo. This darling of Instagram (it's tasty and beautiful) hails from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, and features doughy steamed purses intricately folded around ground chicken, cilantro and other savory ingredients served in a moderately spiced, vibrantly colored, go-back-for-more broth.