Fu, a native of China, looked to her country's family structure when designing her collection.

Fu, a native of China, looked to her country's family structure when designing her collection. The one-child policy and the pressure Chinese parents often place on their children to succeed gave her pause, which she channeled into the five looks that make up "90." "It's conceptual, abstract," she says. "I took elements from the mood or concept and put it into my collection." Knitwear reigns in her designs, and she stayed with a gray color palette to create a dream-like feel. Look for texture created by braids and layers, too.

Biggest challenge: It was really time-consuming … I used a lot of fabric. It looks like the same color palette, but it's a lot of combination.

Favorite designers: Alexander McQueen and Viktor & Rolf

Inside info: Fu took several fabrics, from wool to polyester, and double-faced them together to create her own fabric and provide contrast between the outside and inside of the garment.