NEW YORK (AP) - Helmut Lang went cubist, Picasso style.

NEW YORK (AP) Helmut Lang went cubist, Picasso style.

The label's New York Fashion Week show Friday in a funky downtown space was dubbed "Assemblage," for the many geometric dresses, skirts and coats combining a range of fabrics and textures.

But this Picasso, as interpreted by creative directors Nicole and Michael Colovos, was near-absent color, sticking mostly to shades of black, white and nude. Hints of bright yellow and blue broke through in some looks for fall.

The show was influenced, according to its notes, by an exhibition called Picasso Black and White, along with the work of Richard Prince in his book, "Prince/Picasso," which turns an eye on the nude female form ala the Spanish painter.

The Lang designers used a rubber-treated fabric for a raised effect. Some pieces combined leather, pressed felt, wool, pony and silk. The pony theme was carried into high-heel boots and pumps.

There was plenty of comfort in leather-trimmed slouchy fur jackets and suits. Some pieces were on the boyish side, including stovepipe pants, but there was a bit of feminine sparkle in sheer tops Lang saved for last.