LONDON (AP) - With Burberry Prorsum and a much-anticipated show by Tom Ford, there was never any doubt that Monday's lineup would be one of the highlights of London Fashion Week.
LONDON (AP) — With Burberry Prorsum and a much-anticipated show by Tom Ford, there was never any doubt that Monday's lineup would be one of the highlights of London Fashion Week.
Burberry design chief Christopher Bailey and Ford delivered the goods, but strong showings by Christopher Kane and Erdem helped bring day four of the biannual style event to an exhilarating climax.
Bold animal prints — think zebra and leopard — were prominent on both Burberry and Ford's catwalks, while Kane unveiled an extensive collection that included everything from camouflage and kilts to velvet and feather trims.
Meanwhile, Erdem Moralioglu surprised some with a dark and moody twist to his typically delicate pastel floral dresses.
There was a lot of black, though the different textures (lace, velvet, mesh) and layers kept things interesting. Floral prints and feathers peeked out under black organza overlays, while sheer black polka dot layers were draped over abstract yellow florals.
The designers were the last major stars to show during London Fashion Week, which ends Tuesday. The event will be followed by catwalk shows in Milan and Paris.
Burberry's creative director, Bailey, has taken its classic trench coats on safari for a makeover.
In a catwalk show that drew actresses Kate Beckinsale and Michelle Dockery to its front row, the luxury British brand updated its coats with calfskin and mink in bold leopard and giraffe prints, cinched in with glossy gold belts.
Bailey said he stuck to elegant fabrics such as cashmere and a classic palette of camel, oxblood, black and white for his new autumn collection, but injected contrast with innovative fabrics such as plasticized leather.
Those certainly are not for the conservative dresser. A camel trench coat had its sleeves, gun flaps and skirt made of a brown rubber, while another trench coat is made in shiny wine-colored PVC. A tight translucent rubber skirt revealed flirty heart-print knickers underneath.
Ford's show included lacy black tops, brightly colored metallic skirts, and long, form-fitting black dresses set off by explosive sunbursts of sequined, metallic color.
The American designer also made use of leopard-printed coats of varying lengths and — in a nod to the 1960s — soft black leather jackets with fringes in the back.
Other outfits emphasized a basic color palette of black and white in interesting contrasts, playing on a zebra-striped theme.
The outfits were not revealing but very feminine and flattering, with many jackets offering high neck collars and dramatic shapes.
Kane's first collection since luxury conglomerate PPR bought a majority stake in his label did not disappoint. In fact, there were so many themes that it seemed like several collections rolled into one.
The designer opened his show with oversized, boxy and buckled army coats, then moved on to develop the military theme with muted blue and grey camouflage prints on kilts and silky separates.
Off-shoulder dresses with big fur trims came next, and then it was a riot of different themes and looks: Short, sexy dresses in crochet, tight velvet numbers held together with crochet panels or adorned with ruffle-like feather trims, 3D flowers and organza patchwork.
The finale consisted of a series of sparkly party dresses embellished with wiry orange, green and cobalt tinsel-like material.
London designer Erdem Moralioglu has garnered a long list of fans with his delicate, ice cream-colored floral dresses, but this season he decided to put a darker twist on his romantic style.
The show began with all-black dress and coat ensembles, with a rich mix of textures to keep things interesting: Feather trims, boucle, exposed zips and shimmering sequins on sheer blouses.
There were deep burgundy and black lace dresses with a contrasting pale blue collar, followed by Erdem's signature florals in knee-length dresses. The frocks introduced pinks, purples and neon yellows to the collection's palette, though the color was largely subdued by the sheer black layers over them.
The final pieces of the collection returned to just black, playing on sheer layers of lace, velvet and polka dots — sometimes all together.
Associated Press writer Gregory Katz contributed to this report.