c.2013 New York Times News Service

c.2013 New York Times News Service

PARIS — Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, the globe-trotting princess who is a columnist for Vogue, arrived at her own dinner party at the Hôtel Prince de Galles on Tuesday night on the back of a motorcycle. To beat the traffic, Parisians gad about on motorbikes these days, ever since Uber introduced the bike option here last year.

“You can get anywhere in 10 minutes,” von Thurn und Taxis said as she adjusted a thin silver band that rested on her forehead. “The only problem is your hair.”

Before Carine Roitfeld’s seasonal Paris Fashion Week send-off party, von Thurn und Taxis had gathered a small crew that included the designers Giambattista Valli, Esteban Cortázar, Max Osterweis and Nicholas Kirkwood. And Lena Dunham, who, believe it or not, had never been to Paris.

“It has been a major oversight in my life,” she said.

Dunham wore a simple frock with a loose white top, recounting how she had visited the Musée d’Orsay earlier that day but, because of a ticketing mess and a 25-minute wait, was unable to enter its titillating special exhibition on the history of the male nude. She and a friend stood outside the entrance, peering in hopelessly before they finally gave up.

As the clock struck 11 p.m. the guests began to disperse, on their way to Roitfeld’s party at the fancy-pants restaurant Pavillon Ledoyen, right behind the Petit Palais museum, that followed a screening of “Mademoiselle C,” the documentary about her new magazine. Roitfeld’s parties, as they have grown larger, and larger, have lost some of the je ne sais quoi of their earlier days, the “quoi” being space to breathe.

These French people do not know how to work a room. They air-kiss in doorways and refuse to budge so that no one else can get a glimpse of Kim Kardashian as she entered with the Givenchy designer, Riccardo Tisci.

Roitfeld, with glittering eye shadow and a stark black dress, remained near the entrance, soliciting feedback on the film, which she had skipped.

“I don’t want to watch any more about me,” she said. “But I like to hear what other people say about me.”

The designers piled in with people you’ve never seen before.

Anthony Vaccarello walked by, then Victoire de Castellane and Lawrence Steele, Brian Atwood, Peter Dundas, Bruno Frisoni and Katy Perry, who had attended the Chanel show that day, though it was hard to hear what anyone was talking about over the Michael Jackson and George Michael wedding party tunes.

As usual, the party became fun only after midnight. Suddenly Joan Smalls, the model, kicked off her shoes and set to dancing with Lily Donaldson in the manner of a maypole, while Miguel, the phenomenally popular American singer whom no one seems to recognize in France, watched with a wide grin.

And had you left the party around 1:15 a.m., you would have found yet another model, Lindsey Wixson, outside, sitting on the back of a motorcycle.