From under the partial curtain that covers the doorway into the kitchen at Jie's Good Tasting, diners can see a man sitting at a table. He pulls chunks of dough out of a bowl and rolls them by hand with a tiny rolling pin.

From under the partial curtain that covers the doorway into the kitchen at Jie's Good Tasting, diners can see a man (the lower half of him, anyway) sitting at a table. He pulls chunks of dough out of a bowl and rolls them by hand with a tiny rolling pin.

So, when the server came up to our table a few minutes later, there was no question as to my order: dumplings. This was my first visit to the 24-seater in Grandview shortly after it opened last spring. They've since ditched the lengthy, cliche Americanized Chinese menu, tightening it to focus mostly on noodle bowls and dumplings. This was a welcome change, since dumplings are where this eatery excels.

The wrapping is thick and tender on imperfectly crimped dumplings ($8.50 for 16). And they're generous on the fillings. My favorite is the Sanxian filled with tender chunks of shrimp, juicy pork and chopped chives. The pork and pickled cabbage dumplings have a pleasant fermented flavor. And the pork and shepherd's purse tastes sharp and herbaceous-if you're the kind of eater who loves to load pho with Thai basil, you'll love this one.

Ask for a side of the house-made bright and tangy soy-vinegar sauce-it gives dumplings a little pop. Any of the dumplings on the list of nine regular offerings can also be prepared in a huge bowl of hot and sour soup ($9), heavy on the sour.

A word of warning: Service isn't great. Though friendly, waiters are not very attentive or fast, but the dumplings are worth the wait. If in doubt, opt for takeout. 1413 Grandview Ave., Grandview, 614-824-4657