Fukuryu puts an old-meets-new spin on the Japanese ramen shop.

Fukuryu puts an old-meets-new spin on the Japanese ramen shop.

One eveningat Fukuryu Ramen on Lane Avenue, I was crying into my bowl of soup with Stone Temple Pilots playing in the background.

The reason for the tears was Fukuryu's Red Dragon Ramen ($12.90). Akin to an angry egg drop soup, the chicken broth-based dish is red in color, thickened with egg and topped with pork. This modern twist on traditional ramen is almost "I dare you" spicy, but delicious.

Jeff Tsao, whose family owned the bygone and beloved Kahiki Supper Club, started Fukuryu (meaning "lucky dragon") in Melbourne, Australia, and opened the Upper Arlington location, his first stateside outpost, earlier this year.

Inside, the vibe is fast-casual, friendly and modern. A large red dragon clutches chopsticks on a wall mural opposite an open kitchen. Seating options are metal stools at cute wooden tables or six bar seats facing the kitchen. Or you can just sit on your couch-as I can attest from two UberEats deliveries, Fukuryu's ramen soups travel very well.

Among the small plates on the menu, the Red Dragon Wings ($5.90) are fiery, as the name suggests, but the flavor is one-note. Better to order the flavorful pork belly rice (a meal on its own at only $5.90) or the Okonomiyaki Balls ($3.90), a crispy pancake ball filled with pork belly and egg that plays off traditional Osaka-style cabbage pancakes.

For adventurous eaters (or maybe hungover ones), there's the soupless Junk Ramen ($8.90). It's the noodle version of a suicide-you know, when kids combine Dr. Pepper, Orange Fanta, Sprite and Coke all into one gnarly fountain drink. A soft-boiled egg, bonito fish flakes, mozzarella(!), pork belly, yuzu mayo, cabbage and crispy noodles sit atop ramen noodles. Mix it together into one big mess and the blend of flavors is strangely enjoyable.

Despite the shop's modern decor and unconventional twists on Japanese fare, Fukuryu really excels with its traditional ramen soups, including the tonkotsu ramen ($11.90). The pork bone broth is thick and luscious, the locally made ramen is al dente, and it comes topped with thinly sliced pork belly, bamboo shoots and a soft-boiled egg.

It's early yet in the Fukuryu story, but based on Tsao's Upper Arlington experiment, this dragon may be tough to tame. Indeed, another location is set to open in Dublin's Bridge Park development in early 2017.