The new Short North restaurant shares recipes for classic latkes and its Latke Royale.
The story goes that latkes originated as a staple of the Jewish Hanukkah celebration not for the ingredients in the dish itself, but because the cooking technique—frying in oil—symbolizes the miracle of one night’s menorah oil lasting eight nights. Pronounced “lot-kuhs,” the potato pancakes are now enjoyed year-round, in preparations ranging from humble (paired with applesauce and/or sour cream) to extravagant, accompanied by smoked fish and caviar.
Both preparations can be found at Cameron Mitchell Restaurants’ newest addition to the Columbus dining scene, Harvey & Ed’s. A modernized take on the delicatessen, the restaurant’s goal is to “bridge the gap between counter service and casually upscale dining,” says executive chef Jonathan Basch. Since opening in June, the menu has focused on making traditional dishes more approachable, with offerings that represent both familiar and contemporary takes on deli classics.
If you don’t have time to prepare latkes from scratch using the recipe below, Basch says you can pick up the Hanukkah staple at the deli counter to cook at home.
Classic Latkes from Harvey & Ed’s
Start to finish: 1 hour prep time, 2 hours freeze time
Servings: 30 4-oz. latkes
Ingredients:5 pounds Idaho potatoes, shredded (fresh or frozen) 2 1/2 pounds yellow onions 5 eggs 2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 5 ounces all-purpose flour Canola oil, for frying Sour cream and applesauce (optional)
Special Equipment:Box grater or food processor Cheesecloth or tea towel Deep-fry or candy thermometer
Using a box grater or food processor with a coarse grating disc, grate the fresh potatoes and onions; if using frozen potatoes, thaw them at room temperature.
Place potatoes and onions in a colander and rinse for a few minutes under cold water.
Place potato-onion mixture in a cheesecloth or tea towel and wring out.
In a large bowl, make a well in the potato-onion mixture and add eggs, salt and flour.
Mix thoroughly and portion mixture into 4-ounce patties.
Freeze for at least 2 hours or overnight.
In a large pan, heat 1/4 inch of oil to 350 degrees and deep-fry latkes in batches (latkes should not touch) until golden brown, about 3–5 minutes per side.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Remove latkes from pan and allow them to drain on a wire rack or a paper towel-lined plate.
Place latkes on a cookie sheet and bake at 450 degrees for 5 minutes.
Serve hot with ramekins of sour cream and applesauce.
Latke Royale from Harvey & Ed’s
Servings: 1 Latke Royale
Pickled Fennel Slices and Coins
Ingredients:2 fennel bulbs and stalks (about 8 ounces), fronds reserved 1 yellow onion (about 4 ounces) 3 cups water 1 cup distilled white vinegar 2 tablespoons salt 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds 2 tablespoons dill, roughly chopped
Clean the fennel and onion. Using a mandolin, shave both to 1/12 inch thick from top to bottom. Place vegetables in a large bowl with a lid and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine water, vinegar, salt, sugar, peppercorns, mustard seeds and dill.
Bring pickling liquid to a simmer. Dissolve sugar and salt.
Remove from heat and strain pickling liquid (about 4 cups) into a container.
Cool liquid down to below 40 degrees.
Pour cold pickling liquid on top of the fennel and onion. Mix thoroughly and refrigerate for approximately 24 hours prior to serving.
Ingredients:2 ounces fresh lemon juice 2 ounces fresh orange juice 2 ounces red wine vinegar 6 ounces extra virgin olive oil
In a mixing bowl, juice fresh lemons and oranges. Strain to remove seeds.
Combine vinegar and olive oil with juice.
Place in a container and refrigerate for later use.
Ingredients:8 ounces crème fraîche 1 tablespoon dill, chopped 1 4-ounce classic latke (see recipe above) 1 1/2 ounces of gravlax (or smoked salmon) 1/2 ounce caviar (Hackleback preferred) 1 tablespoon pickled fennel and onion slices and coins 2 fennel fronds (torn into 1-inch-long pieces) 1 tablespoon Granny Smith apple, julienned 1 teaspoon citrus vinaigrette 1/2 teaspoon chives, chopped 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
In a bowl, mix the chopped dill and crème fraîche. If making ahead, place dill crème fraîche in a covered container and refrigerate for later use.
Place large dollop of crème fraîche in the center of the serving plate. Spread in a circular pattern larger than the latke.
Place hot latke on top of the crème fraîche, then take more crème fraîche and cover the latke edge to edge.
Place gravlax salmon delicately around the top of the latke.
Top with caviar.
In a bowl, toss pickled fennel and onions, fennel fronds and apple pieces in citrus vinaigrette.
Top latke with the fennel salad.
Garnish with chives and lemon zest.