Burgers can be exceedingly simple—just a patty between buns—or a creation stacked so high with toppings that it defies the human jaw. So what condiments should be included or left by the wayside?

“I want something mayonnaise-y, like [a restaurant’s] special sauce or relish,” says Matthew Heaggans of Preston’s: A Burger Joint and Ambrose and Eve. “I want something acidic, something fatty and smooth to keep my bun from getting