A delicious journey at Cameron Mitchell's latest

With a ship-style figurehead above its snazzy bar and suitcases stacked high between its tall ceiling and boatlike, curved contours, Cameron Mitchell’s latest Short North sensation can bring to mind an ocean liner. If you can afford the pricey ticket to this seafood-centric eatery (Del Mar is Spanish for “from the sea”), you’ll find yourself launched on a delicious journey that will sail you—as that “SoCal” bit implies—somewhere near Southern California.

A crack crew will fulfill all your needs in Del Mar’s roomy and bustling space, which features a light-colored palette, abundant wood and tilework, multiple mirrors, pale green banquettes and golden lighting—some from huge, overhead lamps.

The on-point team can steer you toward destination dishes such as octopus presented on ice—an impressive and refreshing take on the seaweed salads prevalent in sushi restaurants, here created with delectable nibbles of firm yet tender, sous-vide octopus and a side of extra-crunchy tortilla chips.

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Lobster roll fans will find few heftier or better renditions. Del Mar’s decked-out, tangy-sauced halibut is also hard to beat. If money is no object, spring for the rustic yet elegant fisherman’s stew.

If seafood isn’t your thing, the terrific brick chicken and the inhalable seven-vegetable fried rice—a healthful spin on Chinese takeout fashioned with shaved cauliflower “rice”—will transport you to a happy place.

Ditto for the Aperol spritz-riffing Beach Party cocktail and the pound cakelike olive oil cake—a citrus-spiked, incredibly moist, decadent dessert.

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