Small plates with big flavors

At Nosh On High, neither the chicken nor the egg comes first—they arrive simultaneously in crispy and addictive fried chicken-skin strands planted in the smooth, mustard-kissed fillings of deviled eggs with hot-sauce-dotted whites. This irresistible and playful snack called What Came First illustrates the wit and skill put into Nosh’s best dishes: small plates with big flavors.

Reinventing old favorites is the name of the game in this modest-sized eatery that has revivified the former MoJoe Lounge space in the vintage Lazarus building. Here, bricks and photographs of the original landmark department store seamlessly mingle with mod accoutrements such as a curved bar, bare-bulb lighting fixtures and ladderlike wooden features—one functions as an overhead trellis with plants dangling from it.

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While makeovers are favored, it’s not at the cost of obliterating their inspirations. So a sip of the Nosh Fashion, a rejiggered Old-Fashioned cocktail presented in a bespoke flask, is as orange-scented and potent as its formidable model.

Offering health-enhanced but still delectable poutine is a tall order—especially when it’s created with bodacious, scratch-made tater tots. By shaving cauliflower into the spuds and ladling on hearty veggie gravy, Nosh’s version doesn’t fall short.

Reading “rib-eye” listed at $15 on a menu arouses attention. What arrives are amusing miniature eclairs with succulent shaved beef and other upgraded trappings of the Philly steak sandwich—as per usual here, expectations are sometimes confounded, but not dashed.

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