The Mexican breakfast dish is taking off in Columbus.

Editor’s Note: Due to the coronavirus pandemic, some restaurants mentioned in this article may be temporarily closed; others are offering carryout/delivery only. Please call to check availability.

Move over, avocado toast. Chilaquiles, the traditional Mexican breakfast dish of tortilla chips stewed in green or red salsa, has gone mainstream, showing up on menus all over Central Ohio in recent years.

Long before other restaurants struck gold with—let’s face it—deliciously soggy breakfast nachos, Hilliard’s Starliner Diner (4121 Main St.) was creating a legion of chilaquiles fans. Starliner’s version features eggs scrambled with peppers, onions, corn, zucchini and house-fried tortilla chips tossed in a smoky, tomato-based chipotle sauce.

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Unlike more traditional varieties, the chips aren’t stewed for long, landing Starliner’s version on the crispier end of the chilaquiles spectrum. The dish is finished with jack cheese, cilantro, black beans and chorizo (optional). General manager Ron Phillips, a 20-year veteran of the Latin American-inspired restaurant, says customers flock to Hilliard just to order the dish. “When I started here, I had to explain what things like tamales, huevos rancheros and chilaquiles were to most of my tables. Now, people just know.”

Four More Chilaquiles All-Stars:

1. Arepazo elarepazolatingrill.com

2. Cuco’s Taqueria cucostaqueria.com

3. Philco Bar + Diner philcodiner.com

4. Rockmill Tavern rockmilltavern.com

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