Brunch Guide: The Table
With its hip, artsy vibe and "everything artisanal" aesthetic, this French-cuisine-informed place on the edge of the Short North might temporarily transport you to one of those crowded hot properties in New York's restaurant-rich Greenwich Village. Understated in name and decor but versatile in personality, casual-yet-sophisticated The Table is a serious bakery, a smart bar and a charcuterie-featuring all-day eatery. It's the kinda place with an open kitchen, trendy music, quaintly mismatched tables and chairs, pretty flowers in improvised, liquor-bottle vases and low-glowing Edison bulbs in wire-cage lamp shades. Protip: Brunch reservations are strongly recommended, and don't show up in a rush.
The Bloody Mary, $10
Light, bright, a little spicy and a little smoky, The Table's homemade Mary mix tastes like it might be spiked with a little chipotle. Providing counterpoints are skewered garnishes of olives and vegetable strips redolent of a fruity-sweet pickle brine.
Savory: Akoori, $12
One taste of this simple-but-brilliant dish - it involves a combination that might sound iffy, but actually works like magic - will have you asking why more places in Columbus don't cook it: perfectly soft scrambled eggs given an Indian curry-like treatment. The creamy, turmeric-tinted and slightly smoky ova, which are more aromatic than spicy, are sprinkled with cilantro and punctuated with diced tomatoes plus sautéed garlic and thin strips of red onion. The perfect complement arrives on the side: hulking slices of crunchy toast from house-made bread sporting a sourdough allure.
Sweet: Dutch Baby, $10
Tragically, Dutch babies are as rare in town as akoori. Happily, the Dutch babies here are fantastic - and pretty - comprised of rippled and crisp-edged, golden brown discs that exist in a bewitching sweet spot between a crepe and a soufflé. The eggy and puffy, plate-sized pancakes are scented with cinnamon and decorated with a bright and jammy berry compote capped with nuanced, hand-whipped cream. Yes, this thing's special.
The Table's Mac & Cheese ($3) is rightly esteemed for being hearty and creamy, but it's also distinguished for reaching harmony with its cheese-sauce-coated bonus ingredients: wild mushrooms and kale greens.
21 E. Fifth Ave. #101