Kitchen Ink: Rosendales update

Staff Writer
Columbus Alive

So what's up with the Rosendales mini-trio of restaurants? By now most finger-on-the-pulsers know that the nationally acclaimed, fantastically talented namesake chef is leaving for a prestigious gig at the hallowed Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia. But does that occurrence translate into the darkening of a star in the local restaurant firmament? Not according to some e-mails I recently received.

In clear and strong language, Richard Rosendale wrote me that, "We are not closing and nor do we intend to close" and "we will continue to refine, adapt, improve and grow our brand."

To those ends, Rosendales' three conjoined eateries - the taverny Details, the casual-eating Rosendales Modern Bistro and the more sophisticated Upstairs at Rosendales - have secured experienced professionals in key positions.

Taking over as chef de cuisine is Eddie Tancredi, a Cleveland native who has made culinary stopovers in London and Munich, apprenticed at the Greenbrier, and worked under celebrity Iron Chef Michael Symon. Christian Chitiu is the new general manager. Chitiu might be familiar to locals from his eight years at Handke's, the last spent as the place's maitre'd.

Hopefully those firm appointments can help the Rosendales "brand" endure these stormy restaurant times without its name-on-the-door chef at hand (unlike the unfortunately shuttered Handke's). And hopefully now all the perceived drama lately associated with Rosendales will be limited to the high-flying food that comes out on its plates as opposed to the rumors and speculations of its demise.

Because let's face it, these three sometimes innovative and once highly anticipated restaurants have generated a lot of heat in this town in a short while, and however you feel about them now, it's a plain big-picture fact that Columbus is simply a better place with them than without them. I'll be checking them out again soon.