Restaurant review: Press Grill
What am I going on about? Well, seeing how people in this chicken-wing-obsessed era we live in will brazenly dump wing sauce onto nearly anything - and with good reason, if you ask me! - I was trying to think of things the hot stuff wouldn't improve.
Because, let's face it, adding that double-barreled burn of vinegar and chili can bring an enlivening zing to all kinds of asking-for-it edibles. For instance, while hanging out at the delightful Press Grill the other night, I had an appetizer dish that splashed wing sauce all over something far leaner than skin-on, fried chicken wings - and the result worked great.
First a few words about the Press. It's no wonder the friendly confines of this stalwart Short Norther are frequently packed with good-timing imbibers - talk about a lot to offer!
It's dark and comfy inside, with a long bar fitted with padded chairs. Behind the accommodating bar are wall-spanning mirrors that allow patrons to see how much fun they're having. There's also cherry-wood-colored tables, a checkerboard floor, a quartet of modestly sized sports-tuned tubes, decent tunes and some of the best bar food in town.
Along these lines are homey soups, a bunch of especially well-made burgers and sandwiches, spot-hitting pizzas and a group of excellent daily specials. And c'mon, how can you beat two Nathan's Famous hot dogs for $3 (Mondays), or complete Thanksgiving (Thursday) or steak (Sunday) dinners for a beyond-reasonable $10?
As for that wing-sauced starter, it was Buffalo Shrimp. Unlike most of the Press Grill's menu items, this one wasn't super cheap ($9), but it was worth the tariff. I got eight non-battered fatboy shrimp given a dark and crusty chargrilling but still plump, tender and juicy underneath. The crispy critters were doused in a creamsicle-colored sauce showing a fine balance between butter and vinegar.
I also liked how the smoky grill-marked flavor of the good-quality crustaceans thematically paired with the singe of the sauce. On the side were the expected celery and blue cheese dip to dampen the flames (Hint: don't plunge the shrimp into the thick blue cheese sauce - it'll overwhelm them).
For best results, consume these Buffalo Shrimp with two to three light-bodied and refreshing brewskis. Repeat as necessary.
For more local food news and reviews, click to G.A. Benton's blog at blog.columbusalive.com/underthetable
741 N. High St., Short North
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