Edible Art: DeepWood

Staff Writer
Columbus Alive

Where: DeepWood - whose unique "woodsy" look and creative takes on classic American cooking help make it one of the city's best restaurants

What: Apple Tart

Artistic kinship: Leonardo da Vinci's sketch of a theoretical helicopter-like machine; the Himmelb(l)au architectural group; the profusion of semi-pro sand dollar art

This intensely flavored confection is a great illustration of what DeepWood is all about - it takes a humble staple out of our nation's favorite dessert stable and refashions it into something truly special; and, as befits DeepWood's ethos, this tart is as American as both apple pie and Frank Lloyd Wright.

From top to bottom you get: a (sometimes horizontally axled, sometimes vertically) paper-thin, desiccated and delicate wheel of apple with a fragile and brittle crispness; a scoop of spicily restrained cinnamon ice cream; a knife-skill showy pinwheel of semi-sliced apple cooked to somewhere between pie filling and retaining the fruit's raw firmness; a streuselly crumble; a rich and moist shell of a wonderful, ridged crust; a dreamy caramel sauce.

Each individual component is of standalone and stand-out quality, but when eaten together, might have you swooning with bliss.