Edible Art: M at Miranova

Staff Writer
Columbus Alive

Where: M at Miranova - Cameron Mitchell's lavish and dramatic flagship restaurant

What: Coffee and Donuts

Artistic kinship: Joseph Cornell (who fashioned odd and dazzling little boxes out of everyday knickknacks) and Marcel Duchamp (who pioneered found-object "readymade" art); both artists loved puns and games and enjoyed challenging each other at chess.

With this winking take on coffee and donuts, a prosaically named dessert has become a game of transitions played on the game board of a segmented dish. So hot has become cold as a tromp l'oeil cup of cappuccino actually holds a coffee semifreddo that eats like a beautiful, almost frozen mocha mousse capped with frothily whipped milk.

The "donuts" are delicate and lovely, walnut-sized just-fried apple fritters with crackly shells and moist interiors studded with diced green apple. Dunk a fritter into the thick and rich caramel sauce and it's a riff on "carmel" apples; roll one in the bright and lively raspberry sauce and it's a candy apple in warm, petite pastry form.