Restaurant Review: Press Grill
It seems like one of the few things Americans can agree on is that we all love Thanksgiving. OK, maybe not the mandatory family aspect of the event, but certainly that spilling-over dinner. And yet Tom Turkey Thursday happens only once a year. Are we supposed to be cool with that? I mean, I'm not.
Well, hello Press Grill. You see, the Press is brazenly thumbing its nose at the tyranny of the holiday feasting calendar by declaring every single Thursday to be Thanksgiving Dinner Night.
It's pioneering, it's history defying, it's a gravy-drenched gob-jammer of celebratory-style poultry and fixins, and it can make even the most boring Thursday seem kind of special. Yeah, that's the way the Press Grill rolls, and I like it for that.
Clearly, I'm not the only one who feels this way, because the Press Grill is almost always packed. Nestled in the heart of the Short North, the Press attracts an all-ages mix of good-timers.
Above a black-and-white checkerboard floor, its welcoming narrow space accommodates the toasting crowds on tall, cherry-wood-colored tables and at a long bar equipped with four little flat-screens.
And most every happy imbiber shows up to enjoy a snack or have a full-on meal. Because while it's tavern-dark inside the Press, the place serves food far brighter than your basic pub grub.
Since the Thanksgiving meal dabbles with released-from-the-deep-freeze-of-time retro classics, why not start off with that most retro of salads - the iceberg wedge ($6)? They do it well at the Press, accessorizing the crunchy cold lettuce with tons of diced tomato, very crispy bacon bits, red onion slivers, blue cheese chunks and a rich and creamy dressing.
When it's time to gobble up the gobbler ($10), you'll be presented with a heaping helping of America on a plate. You'll get: hefty slabs of juicy, very good quality white-meat turkey; stout and sturdy real-deal mashers with chickeny gravy; stuffing doctored up with crumbled fennel-seeded sausage, onion and celery; cranberry dressing straight from a can; and that other blast from the convenience-food past, the green bean casserole.
Before digging in, I suggest you sing something suitably patriotic, like "America the Beautiful" or "Yankee Doodle Dandy" or "The Bird is the Word."
For more local food news and reviews, click to G.A. Benton's blog Under the Table
741 N. High St., Short North