Lunch review: The Angry Baker

Staff Writer
Columbus Alive

A sandwich is only as good as its bread. And so a sandwich shop housed inside a bakery is already ahead of the game.

Especially when that bakery is as great as The Angry Baker, a newly opened shop sitting across the street from Yellow Brick Pizza in Olde Towne East.

The baker referenced in the name is Vicki Hink, and the young entrepreneur is generating lots of buzz with her fresh-baked breads. They're now being used to make the hoagie sandwiches at Liz Lessner's Jury Room and will soon be served at Betty's Fine Food & Spirits as well.

Try them there, sure, but definitely also pay a visit to Hink's funky little Olde Towne eatery, where she's put together an interesting little collection of sandwiches starring her scratch-made breads.

I highly recommend any of the options served on the crumbly yellow brioche, like the Slow Roasted Pulled Pork. Lots of tender, juicy Ohio-raised meat is paired with melted havarti and a fun mango pepper slaw, served on buttery toasted brioche slices.

Happily, every one of those ingredients is sourced from local farms. The pork hails from Bower & Sons in Pataskala, the cheese is from Mayfield Road Creamery in Orwell, and many of the ingredients used to make the bread (oats, flour, bran, etc.) come from Millersburg's Stutzman Farms.

All sandwiches are served with a mesclun side salad with chopped veggies and croutons.

The cafe menu changes frequently, but there are always several options for vegetarians and vegans, such as the Snobby Joe, a vegan take on the Sloppy Joe made with lentils.

Beyond the bread, you'll find plenty of delicious sugary treats.

The sweets didn't fit into my normal $10 lunch budget, but The Angry Baker's dessert case is so darned tempting that I went ahead and splurged on some dessert. Actually, my lunch companion and I bought two desserts and split them.

The Tiramisu ($4.50) was outstanding, a huge slice of chilled, pillowy, coffee-flavored goodness. We also tried the dessert special that day, a cinnamony bread pudding made from - what else? - that addictive brioche.


Slow Roasted Pulled Pork sandwich: $9.50

Tax: $.64

Total: $10.14

The Angry Baker

891 Oak St., Olde Towne East