From conservative to girly, Fashion Week continues

Sunday was a day for remembering and looking ahead as New York Fashion Week continued in Manhattan.

Early in the day, one of fashion's own (albeit a sharp-tongued one) was remembered at Joan Rivers' funeral. Among the guests: designers Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors, and E! network "Fashion Police" co-hosts Giuliana Rancic and Kelly Osbourne.

Victoria Beckham took a conservative approach to spring 2015; Joseph Altuzarra went for girly naivete inspired by Roman Polanski and Stanley Kubrick.

Among the highlights:

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VICTORIA BECKHAM

There were lots of stripes, muted colors and sleek looks as Victoria Beckham presented her spring/summer collection, which she says is a redefinition of her line.

Beckham had her show in a cathedral-like hall off of Wall Street — an apropos setting for her clothes, which looked like they were designed for a stockbroker looking for something that was glamorous, sexy — but still workplace appropriate.

In general, she would do well with Beckham's collection, which, save for a few pink floral outfits including a shirt dress, had a bit of a conservative tone. In a palette that mostly ranged from tan to taupe and black, with accents of white or an occasional maroon, there were sleek solid coats of varying lengths, boxy dresses, and pantsuits. But of course, being Beckham's line, they were not exactly traditional; there was a long coatdress with a red belt, a white accent stripe at the bottom and an asymmetrical design that made for a clever, one-breasted panel. One black dress had cut-out, exposed shoulders, and other coats and dresses had cutouts that showed off sharp shoulder blades and minuscule waists. There were also sweater dresses and long layered skirts.

Notables in the audience: husband David Beckham and Anna Wintour.

In describing her line, Beckham said the launch of her new retail space in London had made her redefine her clothes with "the idea of creating an eclectic uniform in the form of an exact, yet wearable wardrobe that embodies the evolution of the collection."

—Nekesa Mumbi Moody

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JOSEPH ALTUZARRA

In a spring collection that moved easily through pink seersucker gingham tailored for adult women into open leather lattice in vests and dresses, Joseph Altuzarra ended his New York Fashion Week show on Saturday with breezy deconstructed gowns that included one glistening in gold.

It was a long journey, inspired in part by the girlish naivete of the devil's childbearer in Roman Polanski's "Rosemary's Baby" and the Irish rogue in Stanley Kubrick's "Barry Lyndon."

The finale's gold chiffon, along with two other loose gowns in red and pink prints, were Altuzarra's 21st-century response to the constraints of 18-century clothing for women.

Though he had some see-through moments that wouldn't work for most, the spring collection Saturday night seemed intended to make a woman's life just a tad easier.

"I really think about clothes that women want to wear," he said in a backstage interview after the show. "I think that's what's really interesting for me."

The finales, with deep V-necks and pearl embroidery, were re-imaginings intended for all body types.

"They were inspired by these 18th-century very restricting crinoline dresses, but what would happen if you sort of took out all of the underpinnings and you had this very deflated shape. I think it was a metaphor for this narrative of going from very constricted to freed."

—Leanne Italie

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