Herve Leger's woman warrior in hot pink, yellow

NEW YORK (AP) — Herve Leger by Max Azria's samurai warrior woman battled on Saturday in fierce metal garter fittings, zippers and bright pops of pink and neon yellow that offset the more traditional tight bandage looks of the brand.

Not all of the metal detailing was a call to war. A blush rose strapless dress with kicky pleats at the knee offered a feminine touch to the spring collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. So did a lagoon-blue accented print for day dresses.

Designer Lubov Azria mixed multicolored jacquards and origami applique in contrast to the brand's signature couture beading and metal weaving.

Her neutral palette of alabaster white, light gray and a color she calls "bare" dominated other looks.

In addition to dresses, Azria showed shorts in the stretchy bandage style, along with woven skirts.

Herve Leger by Max Azria, who is Lubov's husband, is a celebrity standard. In the front row: actresses Katie Cassidy and Sami Gayle, model Petra Nemcova and Laverne Cox from "Orange is the New Black."

Lubov Azria said in a backstage interview that the collection was intended as a woman's journey that took her beyond the brand's usual bandages, Jacquards and signature silhouettes.

Her first stop was punctuated by kimono-like sleeves with origami touches, then the mood shifted to the sturdy garter belt detailing and a splash of sequins. She slowly transformed again into a warrior, Azria said, with metal beading "like a shield."

In the end, there was a softening in structure and color.

"She becomes a lotus flower," the designer explained. "She finds peace and really what a woman should represent is love, peace and rebirth."

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Follow Leanne Italie on Twitter at http://twitter.com/litalie

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AP writer Nicole Evatt in New York contributed to this report