Fries at Tatoheads

Staff Writer
Columbus Monthly

The Tatoheads concept definitely intrigued me: it's a food cart serving potato-based foods. So, they serve fries, which makes sense. But how many other potato-based foods are there, really?

Well, I finally stumbled upon the Tatoheads truck on Friday at Pearl Market and got a chance to see what this potato-based food business is all about. Turns out the majority of the menu does indeed consist of fries. Natural and sweet potato fries (and tater tots too!) are available in half and whole orders, seasoned to the customer's liking (choices include Chicago Deep-Dish Pizza, Cajun, Curry, Dill Ranch, Herbs de Provence, Zatar and Parmesan Peppercorn) and served with a dipping sauce (Tatos Original, Spicy Buffalo Honey, Horseradish Ranch, Curry Aioli, Shallot Truffle Aioli and Red Pepper Cilantro Ketchup).

Otherwise, there's Loaded Baked Potato Soup (sold out by the time I got there) plus fry combos, topped with curry chicken, chili cheese, bacon and cheese, or Italian Beef.

That last one, the Italian Beef Fries, is what I ordered. And here's what I got: a cardboard box (I got a half order) filled with tasty, thickish french fries topped with some stewy Italian beef, melted mozzarella and sauteed peppers and onions. I also grabbed a cup of the truffle aioli on the side.

Figuring out how to eat these fries was a little tricky. The fries themselves were trapped underneath the beef and vegetables, which made it difficult to extract them for dipping in the aioli, which is what I'd thought I might do. Instead, I ended up drizzling the aioli over the whole shebang and eating it with a fork. It was good this way, if super rich (I was glad I only ordered half). And, not surprisingly, aioli-drizzled fries and meat draws lots of "ohhh, what is that deliciousness" comments from passersby. Which is always fun. Next time around, I wanna try the tots.